rp850 Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 This is a great thread. I was just about to write up the same thing. I have one question though. I was planning on following the Bay 13 directions for replacing the wheel bearing since it is the same as what you'd need to do to release the axle from the hub. Bay 13 shows how to free the control arm from the subframe connections rather than at the ball joint. Having replaced the control arms once before, I think it might be easier to leave the ball joint in and go for removing the arm at the subframe. I just used a dead blow hammer to whack the arm out. Just my opinion but I'd rather not mess with the ball joint unless I had to since it sounds like it's a bigger PITA than the bolts on the subframe.This is an easy job to do, it just takes some penetrating oil to get the ball point out from the hub, then two 12mm bolts to take the carrier off and its free. probably an hour job on the ground if the ball joint isnt to stuck. i believe its a 30mm to take axle off the hub, haha i just did it today but i cant remember the numbers. Anyway with a little bit of your time you should be perfectly fine doing it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArmyINFDoc Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 It would only be worthwhile to do just the cv boot if you found the tear as soon as it happened. Leave it torn and dirt and sand gets in there and imo opinion compromises the integrity of the joint itself just after a few days so just go with the axle either way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp850 Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 For a DIYer like me it is easier to swap the axle. If you're a 'real' mechanic like some of the folks on this board then you might opt for replacing the boots and save the cash by putting your own labor into it. My indy charges $225 to replace the boots per side but $245 to replace the axle. The first way is all labor the second way is all parts. My philosophy is that I might as well put a brand new axle in for $20 more. Just to clarify, my inner CV boot needs to be replaced, is the consensus that I should replace my whole axle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitev70r Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 It's been cracked a while. Thanks for all the info. You are right, for $20 difference, it would be more prudent to get a new axle. New axle it shall be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Just to clarify, my inner CV boot needs to be replaced, is the consensus that I should replace my whole axle?Theres several companies that now sell these brand new and not rebuilt from $110 or so. another company is through Parts America for $120 with a Lifetime Gaurantee and you can even pick them up in the store. Parts America. If you are going to do the repair yourself the only way to go like the others said is with a new axle. You get everything brand new with the 2 boots already installed. A no brainer really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp850 Posted December 23, 2006 Report Share Posted December 23, 2006 Anybody have experience with these or the DSS brand (item 7802N) from FCP? Do they fit no problem or is it just worth it to pay extra for the Raxles.com ones?Theres several companies that now sell these brand new and not rebuilt from $110 or so. another company is through Parts America for $120 with a Lifetime Gaurantee and you can even pick them up in the store. Parts America. If you are going to do the repair yourself the only way to go like the others said is with a new axle. You get everything brand new with the 2 boots already installed. A no brainer really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geevs Posted December 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 My friend's shop is charging C$60 for replacing the entire axle or for replacing the boot. As pointed out above, if a shop is doing it, just go with a new axle esp with the cost of new ones around U$110 per axle. I emailed Raxles and they are asking $150 per axle plus an exhorbitant $40 shipping and yet they are not 100% new parts. Someone said the DSS from FCP is crap, I searched other forums and they said the same thing - axle broke within months. Still looking for feedback on the brand new EMPI axles which are $110 shipped from AutohausAZ.com.WhiteV70R, where are you planning to source your axles and have them done? PM me - I could ask my parts source for a discount if we order together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 A Brand new EMPI axel is $104 shipping included on EBAY. Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitev70r Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 WhiteV70R, where are you planning to source your axles and have them done? PM me - I could ask my parts source for a discount if we order together.Geevs, I haven't decided where I'm going to source it yet. I am in Toronto right now so I doubt we can order through the same vendor and save $$ on shipping. I have an appointment with a mechanic some time in early January here. I've just started to check out some of the links that people have posted here. Very helpful. Two other questions, 1. I have an AWD, does that matter when it comes to the axle?2. Is it better to replace both left and right at the same time or just the one where the CV boot is cracked? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp850 Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 Wow, thanks for the heads up about the DSS axles. Anybody out there have any positive experiences with axles other than RAxles? I'm sure they're great but if I'm going to spend $190 and have to deal with shipping back a core, I'll just take it to my indy and pay $50 more to have him do the whole thing while I drink coffee and read. Now if I can find a decent axle for $120 or so, I'd be saving enough money for me to justify doing it myself.My friend's shop is charging C$60 for replacing the entire axle or for replacing the boot. As pointed out above, if a shop is doing it, just go with a new axle esp with the cost of new ones around U$110 per axle. I emailed Raxles and they are asking $150 per axle plus an exhorbitant $40 shipping and yet they are not 100% new parts. Someone said the DSS from FCP is crap, I searched other forums and they said the same thing - axle broke within months. Still looking for feedback on the brand new EMPI axles which are $110 shipped from AutohausAZ.com.WhiteV70R, where are you planning to source your axles and have them done? PM me - I could ask my parts source for a discount if we order together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 This is a great thread. I was just about to write up the same thing. I have one question though. I was planning on following the Bay 13 directions for replacing the wheel bearing since it is the same as what you'd need to do to release the axle from the hub. Bay 13 shows how to free the control arm from the subframe connections rather than at the ball joint. Having replaced the control arms once before, I think it might be easier to leave the ball joint in and go for removing the arm at the subframe. I just used a dead blow hammer to whack the arm out. Just my opinion but I'd rather not mess with the ball joint unless I had to since it sounds like it's a bigger PITA than the bolts on the subframe.Ive always unbolted at the ball joint, its not hard to get it apart if you have a pry bar and a hammer. Use the pry bar to push the ball joint down and then tap it back up with the hammer, do this a few times and it will come right out. also add some PB plaster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 I think I remember reading that the DSS axel from FCP for a few didnt fit right but I could be wrong. I know there were some post about this a while back in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp850 Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 I remember that as well. I just can't imagine FCP selling something that doesn't fit? That's why I'd like to hear from someone who's had good luck with them before I buy one.I think I remember reading that the DSS axel from FCP for a few didnt fit right but I could be wrong. I know there were some post about this a while back in the past. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Guest Posted December 24, 2006 Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 I was just reading through threads about axel replacement so I figured Id post it for those who want to know such things as the tools that are used. Just read through them because everything is there. Axel Replacement Threads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geevs Posted December 24, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2006 Thanks for the posts. Do i still need to go for a wheel alignment after replacing the axle? The thing is I just had a wheel alignment and that's how the CV boot tear was discovered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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