Oreo931 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 MY2000 crank ventilation canister. MY1995 vent hose to head. Slightly modified B5244T5 PTC hose/pipe to MY1995 PTC How did you get the older style intake manifold to clear the top vent hose of the MY2000 crank ventilation box? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted November 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 How did you get the older style intake manifold to clear the top vent hose of the MY2000 crank ventilation box? Now that you ask.. Not sure if it is MY2000. It is a B5234T3 canister. Posted about it >here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted November 20, 2014 Report Share Posted November 20, 2014 Gotcha, thanks. Nice build. I've been following this thread closely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 Happy 2015 all! Some minor updates. SD11 has been decommissioned from DD duty. It is a fun car to drive except for the clutch which didn't work as intended. The thicker S60R friction probably kept the pressure plate from reaching full clamp force. The result was that anything boost beyond 0.5 bar the clutch couldn't hold. Only a few instances where the full potential of the 2.4 engine could be experienced. The there is the D1, the green one. Suspended and without insurance the car had been standing outside for months and had lost some shine. Battery was near dead also. After charging the battery to 75% or so the engine started without to much fuzz. A bit noisy on the valves at first but ran fine once warmed up. Drove the car to the carwash and left the engine running but when I wanted to drive back the engine sputtered and died. Don't know what happened but at first the engine didn't start at all. Phoned a friend for help which took 10-15 minutes and when he arrived to help tow the car back I tried to start the car again and after some sputtery behaviour the engine slowly started running normal again.. After the hickup I/we drove the car back on it's own power. Could have been anything. Checked some things and all appeared to be OK. The car is a 10v. Not using a MAF but MAP and IAT. Gave it some thought and decided to do some testing with this car and it's current engine. Most of the engine plans for this car went in to the SD11. Had some more plans one being convert the car to standalone for future plans. Two choices. Link G4 Xtreme or MS3-Pro. Decided to try the MS3-Pro. Last week I started rewiring the car, Similar approach as the former red "SD-C" 850. ECU in or below the glovebox. Connect the loom inside the ECU box. With the red car I left the loom at full length so it could be used in another car at a later time but with this setup I left less length in the loom. All OEM sensors are used for now. Two quick fixes are needed for the fuel pump which uses a PWM relay with the OEM ECU and the fan which receives both the high and low level power straight from the battery while the MS3 likes to see the low level power being switched to keep it from staying powered on when the engine/ECU is shut off. The 850 fan relay draws it's low level power internally from the high power line. Hope to make more progress in the coming week. And last there's the new DD. It was a long wait. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry_C70 Posted January 5, 2015 Report Share Posted January 5, 2015 I was already starting to worry you weren't getting one Johann. Congrats on the sweet ride. It's the 'wrong' color though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2015 Sold the S60R today, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted January 13, 2015 Report Share Posted January 13, 2015 The new "60" should be a worthy replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2015 The new "60" should be a worthy replacement. The "P"60 is a replacement for the IS. The SD11 is basically the replacement for the S60R. 700 miles so far. Yesterday my oldest son drove the T-5R for the first time after receiving his driver license. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt b Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 He will come to fear those sidewalks with the R front spoiler. They are the work of the devil, there just to rip front spoilers off nice cars. He will learn, one scrape and he will park like Hipster Gabe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 He will come to fear those sidewalks with the R front spoiler. They are the work of the devil, there just to rip front spoilers off nice cars. He will learn, one scrape and he will park like Hipster Gabe. I only asked how long he had planned to enjoy the T-5R bumper. Message was clear, point taken. My son still needs to drive with a coach for the coming 6 months because he is 17. The appointed coaches are his mom and dad. The day he turns 18 he can drive on his own. Something else, Today I managed to get the D1 up and running using an MS3-Pro motormanagement. Had some USB issues at first. Using an HP 6910p laptop running Windows 7. The MS3-Pro came with a TunerStudio license. All new to me. Wiring was pretty straight forward. Using all the OEM sensors. A Fenix 5.2 loom in this case since the car is a 10v. Used a Volvo wiring diagram for reference. There were slight differences in the way some sensors are grounded but all appears to work OK except for the idle valve. Will check later. OEM stuff connected, CLT IAT IAC, 2 wire for the 10v. Having issues still. TPS Knock x 2 Injectors x5, Sequential. Spark x1, OEM distributer setup. Pre wired for COP. Fan, using relay to toggle ground wire when ECU powers down. Explained in earlier post. Fuel pump, needs a quick fix because OEM relay is PWM operated. Tacho out. Crank trigger sensor Cam trigger sensor Zeitronix wideband will be connected soon. Currently used as gauge only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 15, 2015 Report Share Posted January 15, 2015 Any pics of the 10V head /cams? Never seen one. Better get your son his own car - I'm sure you are familiar with statistics on young male drivers and accident rates..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Any pics of the 10V head /cams? Never seen one. Some pics from the WWW, Better get your son his own car - I'm sure you are familiar with statistics on young male drivers and accident rates.... Yes I thought about it and a lot of time went in to the car but the fact remains that he needs to learn how to drive anyway. A Volvo is a bit safer in case things go wrong. My son has a bit of a crush for the VW Caddy, I told him the day he turns 18 he can go get his caddy. And a new home.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 16, 2015 Report Share Posted January 16, 2015 Good luck with that last thing. My son is now 24, finished with college and he now lives back in his mothers house. I've suggested he go to California or some other country to live on his own, but he doesn't seem ready for that. Having a garage full of Volvo parts and a semi-finished 850 wagon may have something to do with that..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmelviØØ7 Posted January 24, 2015 Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Is the V60 a manual transmission? Do they even make them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted January 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2015 Is the V60 a manual transmission? Do they even make them? Is't a 6 speed AT with flippers. D-mode and S-mode AT or manual mode through stick or steering flippers when pushing + or - on the stick or touching the flippers. Holding one flipper makes it return back to AT mode. When using the flippers S-mode is always engaged and the exhaust valve will open. http://youtu.be/zhWk5gL5bHE 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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