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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/28/2022 in Posts

  1. Eating my own words here - back in a Volvo. Don’t act surprised. You know you’re not. I also don’t care if you’re rolling your eyes right now, either. Ultimately I wanted the money that was in the X5 other places. Mostly paying off any outstanding debt we had. So I sold it to my brother. Picked up this 2013 R Design. It’s a car that’s always been on my list of cars I want, so it worked out. My first reaction is I can tell the difference between a BMW and a similar year Volvo; how the door closes, steering feel, interior finish, etc. But there are also more important things than that. Car has 150k miles. But drives straight. No leaks. Needs some attention - first on the list is new front rotors and pads to get rid of the stupid drilled and slotted rotors, transmission torque mount to get rid of the stupid poly torque mount, PCV box, and spark plugs. The issues I’ve discovered is a rear O2 CEL came on after I got it, P2098. I’d love anyone’s input on that one. And there’s some noises from the front DS wheel area.
    3 points
  2. Nice. What color do you think your next P80 is going to be?
    2 points
  3. Haven't posted in a long time... here goes... I have a 1998 V70R which I've fitted a S60R 2.5 engine into. Engine came out of my S60R with 80k and ran good. Have kept the M56 box. Fitted most of the V70R components over (22T turbo, VXR injectors, 3" intake with new PCV system, 3" downpipe (new cat or exhaust fitted atm), Do88 intercooler, V70R throttle body, standard TCV. M4.4 ECU, MAF is 3.5" from a BMW, most of the pipework has been upgraded. All vac lines are silicone, new clutch, flywheel etc). Engine has been converted to Coil over plug using S60R bits and a custom map/ecu wiring. Have completed a VVT delete on both cams. Belts replaced and timing set 2.3' exh anticlockwise and the inlet 6.2' clockwise. O2 is being measured by a AEM AFR wideband. FPR is currently a 3bar unit, was originally 3.4bar to try different things. I'm seeing 3bar at the rail with no massive drop over time. New battery and have confirmed injectors, ICV, CAM, Crank, MAF are all working fine. The car is a pig to start. Running real rich and only real way of starting is to keep blipping the throttle to WOT. Vacuum is only -9psi negative at idle. Glove test inflates massively when idling. Trying to tune the car I'm jumping between 12AFR Rich and 20 AFR Idle. The radiator fan is making the car run real rich and then lean, often stalling the car. Car battery is brand new with healthy voltage / alternator working. at @~14.1volts RPM is around 700-800rpm. My cold compression tests are Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 Cold 102 99 82 100 109 with oil 175 208 185 200 200 (I might of been a bit keen with oil in some of the cylinders!) I haven't tried a compression check hot yet. It's hard enough to start although once running and warm it does fine and tries to hunt for ~14AFR. Short term fuel is jumping -/+ 25.00. Will easily restart warm. Checking the new plugs (volvo genuine, correct long size) they're wet. Spark to all is strong and injectors are pulsing good with good flow with cup test. The only thing left in my mind is the timing is out. I can't believe its rings as the engine ran good power and had no issues before it was moved into car. I've cross checked all the normal bits above with a friend's car that is running fine and the same setup (although he has a K turbo). Installing vice versa and my parts run fine on his inc coils, rail, injectors, maf, etc. I've tried running my friends ECU and loaded his turbotuner map - still won't run good. We're not even out of the garage yet - so no on-road driving! Anything else I'm missing or not thinking about? So hacked with it now!
    1 point
  4. Hey Guys! I wanted to give back a bit by updating the XDF that we have been working with for a while. This XDF should be easier for beginners as it has a bunch of the values renamed to be more human understandable. I also updated some descriptions and added more known maps by scouring this thread and adding them. I also implemented a patch system! So now you are able to change values like MAF Size, Injector Type, ECC Type (850 or X70), Transmission (Man or Auto) all within the software with just a single click! All values are confirmed to work on a 608 BIN file TAKE A LOOK! Feel free to give feedback and suggestions and i'll update it as needed! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13DU5MhBg2spxgmEk5yc5CTo_E3d-881t?usp=share_link
    1 point
  5. Yes. I have it installed currently in my 850R and have found it to be far too sensitive to light across the entire range of the sensitivity setting. Sometimes when the sensor ends up having modern headlights shine onto it (like lifted trucks that are oncoming, or vehicles turning into the oncoming lane from sloping side streets) it will completely shut off the headlights momentarily. I need to either modify the electronics or tint the window that the sensor is behind to make it useful. If it actually worked well it would be cool.
    1 point
  6. That would firstly depend on the sensor itself. What is yours? Mine is a MPX4250GP (gauge type) and my formula to display PSI is: (((X*0.01953125)-0.204)/0.018819)*0.145 If I wanted it to display bars I would divide the whole formula by 14.5 or 14.7.
    1 point
  7. ok .. aquisition - new definition - values - add new item . fill in "title" and "unique Id" , doesn't matter what for example "duty cycle injector" Leave the rest as is. Then go to the tab "conversion" fill in the previous given values. Save .... that's it. I agree with Razorx!
    1 point
  8. Just a short remark: This is a topic where people are trying to investigate things. On a very high level. Please dont post questions already posted before. Dont post before reading this beautifil topic at least five times. And dont post until you understand what you read. Read the Wikia. Read the TunerPro manual and learn. Again and again. The things being discussed are not simple and require some "basic"knowledge. I am a newbie on this forum, but if you are trying to join a project like this. You should have some basic knowledge. If not: Do not even begin with this. Again the M44 wikia and the TunerPro manual were a perfect starting point for me. I did read them multiple times.. If anyone finds what I post is too much off topic. Please tell me. Because I am at mij 52 years willing to learn. That is why I love this topic! Admiritation for all the good work that has been done over here.
    1 point
  9. My sensor is a mxp4250ap. So it uses a different conversion formula... And I got that data from a 4250ap data sheet.
    1 point
  10. I have a MPX4250GP which I didn't fit yet but I was looking at the formulas to put in tunerpro. I found on the thread that the formula for the MPX4250AP would be: (((((X/255) + 0.04)/0.004) - 14.7)*0.145) where 14,7 should be the local atmospheric pressure. Having a GP and not a AP I don't have to correct for the atmospheric pressure, so I don't need to subtract 14.7 or something close to that. However, I was looking at the GP datasheet and its formula is: Vout = Vs x (0,00369P + 0,04) + Error Vout = output voltage Vs = input voltage P = kPa (with a max of 250) Error = I will ignore Considering a normal input voltage of 5.1 (stated on the datasheet) and solving the equation the formula I should put in tunerpro is: (((X*0.01953125) - 0,204) / 0.018819)*0.145 Considering a max normal output voltage of 4,90875 (stated on the datasheet and given by the input voltage 5.1v and 250kPa max reading) the formula I put above should give me a max of 36,25psi which is the same stated on the datasheet (max 36.3psi). However If I use the formula I found here on the forum (given by simplyvolvo if I recall correctly), for the same output voltage I would have 37,13psi, which is more than the sensor is able to read. It seems my formula is more accurate than the other one but I would like to know what you guys think about it. Thanks
    1 point
  11. For AFR... im assuming you have an innovate LC-1. The formula off their website with the default settings is AFR = (V*3.008) + 7.35. so max afr - min afr / 5 = what you multiply voltage by. (22.39 - 7.35) / 5 = 3.008. Then just add that to the min afr which is 7.35. So first we find the voltage. Lets say the adc value is 128. 128 * 0.916 = 2.45 volts. (2.45 * 3.008) + 7.35 = 14.71 AFR. So the forumula you would put into Tunerpro is ((X*0.0196)*3.008) + 7.35. This will give you an afr. For Boost if you are using a MPX4250AP all you need to do is solve VOUT for p. Vout = vs * (0.004 x p - 0.04) vout / vs = 0.004 x p - 0.04 (vout / vs) + 0.04 = 0.004 x p ((vout / vs) +0.04) / 0.004) = p ((2.5 / 5) + 0.04) / 0.004) = p in KPA = 135 KPA. Multiply by .145 for psi, 19.575, subtract 14.7 to pressure above sea level = 4.875 psi. In the end the forumula you input into tunerpro turns into ((((X/255) + 0.04)/0.004)*0.145) - 14.7 Change 14.7 to whatever your local atmospheric pressure is, mine is usually right around 14.68 - 14.72. 25ms worked best for me. I eventually reverted to the stock 16ms though, so that should work.
    1 point