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  1. 6 points
  2. For a long time I've wanted to swap in a FWD subframe to use 2-bolt control arms. The drivers side 4-bolt arm is really challenging to access because of the M66 case. Several years ago I parted out a 99 V70 NA, and kept the subframe for this project. I was finally able to get started on the project this winter. Using a FWD subframe on an AWD car requires welding the AWD transmission mount bracket onto the subframe. I made a template to locate the bracket on the FWD subframe, then cut the bracket off from an AWD subframe taken from a XC my friend parted out: Once I had the bracket in place, I had to notch the bracket to fit around the control arm bracket, then drilled the holes in the subframe to allow for full engagement of the transmission mount bolts: Then once everything was properly prepped and ready for welding, the bracket and subframe around the bracket were ground clean to remove the factory protective coating and 20 years of road grime. Then I had a friend weld the bracket in place. I think he did a fantastic job given the questionable cleanliness of the material he was working with: I cut off some of the extraneous brackets and cleaned everything up to make it easier to work in/around. Then I had a friend powdercoat the subframe to keep everything protected and looking good for years to come. They blasted the subframe clean, then applied a zinc primer, the color powder, and gloss clear powder. Everything came out looking fantastic. I picked a grey powder with some metallic flake to it: After being powdercoated, it was time to install a set of BNE Dynamics (Kaplhenke Racing) delrin subframe bushings. I made a tool to install the bushings - one 3/4" bolt, a 3/4" nut, a three 3/4" fender washers, a 4" metal octagonal junction box, and two j-box covers. Punch the knockouts out of the j-box and cover plates, then place the j-box above the bushing with one fender washer, drop the threaded bolt through the bushing, then two fender washers and j-box covers, and the nut. Tighten the nut to drive the bushing into the subframe. I used my M12 stubby impact and it made life nice and easy. The cardboard is used to protect the powdercoat. And the results - the bushings were seated perfectly, and no marks were left in the powder coat: And with all four bushings installed, the custom subframe is ready for install: Then I prepped a set of 93 850 aluminum control arms for install. I picked up 4 or 6 sets a few years back, sold most of them, and kept a pair for myself. I got a set of new ball joints, then torqued the bolts to spec (13 ft. lbs, then 120 degrees) and safety mark the orientation to ensure nothing comes loose: The bushings were in decent shape, so I left them for now. They'll get replaced with a set of Powerflex polyurethane bushings in the future. I’ll talk about installing the subframe and some other work in my next post
    6 points
  3. Installed a set of Kaplhenke Racing delrin bushings in my subframe
    6 points
  4. Although this thing annoys me sometimes, it does clean up pretty nicely. I finally got around to editing some photos from this fall and wanted to share them since I think they do a great job of showing the how incredible this paint color is during golden hour.
    6 points
  5. Picked this up today. I’ll post more pictures when I get a chance. But have a couple questions off the bat since it’s been so long. The front seat bottom tilt doesn’t work with the switch, but going through the memory buttons, the seat bottoms will tilt. It’s like this on both. The seat belt buckles don’t look like 850 ones. Almost looks like someone swapped in x70 ones. I remember putting in x70 seats into my 850 and they worked completely fine. Do the switches go bad frequently? It seems weird it’s the exact same on both front seats.
    5 points
  6. I might be able to help you out, currently just doing PAP-smears out the back of the wagon in a Walmart parking lot but I’m looking to expand into mobile alignment as well.
    5 points
  7. He had a thread on my X1/9 forum for that build - very nicely done all over. $43K is a nice price for an X1/9 K/swap. They'll have to bury me in mine, I'm never selling it....
    5 points
  8. Got something from a friend to make the suspension job on the 850 easier.
    5 points
  9. Watch out you'll double the mileage in two months at this pace. Custom stealth door pod for the WB. Paint is custom matched to the factory mirror cap.
    5 points
  10. It's been a little while, but not much has changed on this car. It still has the same quirks that I went through in a recent post, but I also drive it almost every day and I still love everything about it. Just figured it deserved a little love as it's been a while.
    5 points
  11. A little while back I got a Kenwood DNR876S head unit. Pretty sweet little touchscreen setup with integral Garmin GPS and CarPlay / Android Auto, plus the usual mix of radio, usb, aux input, etc. No CD/DVD player though. Pictured is wireless CarPlay with navigation and streaming audio (no USB connection needed). Plus it pairs up automatically when I get in the car. Definitely nice to get some more capable and modern ICE for daily driver duties then the single-DIN that came in the car.
    5 points
  12. Bought this To make one of these. Hope to get started late fall/winter
    5 points
  13. Some minor updates/incremental progress from the fall. Several years ago, I scored an OG metal mesh IPD grille from Adam @adamdrives and ran it on my 99 R for a short while before getting rid of that car. So after a few years in storage, I had a friend powder coat the grille for me. For those who remember, the original IPD grilles were either all silver or all black. I went with black mesh and a silver band as an OEM style play off the stock XC grille or the modified stock waterfall grille I had on the car. Since the IPD grille has a much thinner perimeter than the stock grille, parts of the hood that were previously hidden were now going to be visible inside the grille. This was undesirable so I masked off the area around where the grille meets the hood and plasti-dipped it black. I also sprayed the hood release rod and handle in the same black so they'll disappear into the background. And installed the grille (ignore the bug splatter all over the front of my car) Ever since seeing one on the IPD Stage 3 V70 and then on some of the various forum cars (looking at you, Gary @Yellow95) over the years, I've wanted to run a custom silver/black version this grille on my wagon. Thanks to Adam and my friend Donovan for the powder coating, that vision has come to life and I couldn't be happier.
    5 points
  14. The current fleet. I really want to swap out the XC60 for a V60.
    5 points
  15. Put together a quick video on he DOs and DONTS of PCV system while I am refurbishing mine.
    5 points
  16. Covered the dash top with 1/16" neoprene foam , then adhesive backed vinyl.
    5 points
  17. I just got the 850 back Saturday, drove it back to Austin. Tune needs some work but its got a new engine, dash, PDR, headliner, paint job, tires, starter, fuel pump, and master slave cylinder for the M56.
    5 points
  18. I can't blame you for getting side-tracked by the new truck - that LX570 looks really cool, those are super nice. My buddy picked up a J200 Land Cruiser (I forget which year) a little ways back and it's a really impressive vehicle. Yeah, I was really surprised by how much it helped out. Yeah, I'm running the 99 transmission mount on with the bracket Hussein made. Thanks! Yeah, I've been really impressed with the M12 impact so far. I use it for just about anything on the car I can. To pick up where I left off on my last post, I replaced the OEM battery cables with some upgraded cables I made myself - what I did is not very different than the "Big 3" upgrade described in this write-up. Most of you probably know that the stock cables are notorious for voltage drop as they age, especially on the 99/00 models. While I never experienced any voltage drop issues on this car, with a stereo system upgrade in the future, it was a good time to upgrade. To start, I removed the stock cables from the factory loom, which was the most tedious part of the whole process, and used them as templates to order new bulk cable and battery terminals from KnuKonceptz. I used 1/0 AWG Kolossus Flex for the main alternator/starter/battery cables, 4 AWG cable for the B+ cable to the main fusebox, and 8 AWG for the ground straps on the cylinder head. Given the stock alternator is rated at 125 amps, I used a reference chart from Crutchfield to verify the wire size for each new cable would meet/exceed the ampacity of the stock cables. The new alternator/starter/battery cables basically follow the stock routing, but are outside of the main engine harness - while the Kolossus Flex cable is flexible enough to follow the stock routing, unfortunately there was not enough room in the stock plastic housing for the new cables to fit. The cables are terminated with crimped-on ring terminals and adhesive-lined heat shrink boots. I used a pair of Bassik battery terminals - I'm not 100% sold on continuing to use them due to the space constraints caused by the stock airbox, but they were the best available choice in terms on physical size and still offering a variety of set screws to work with the ring terminals on the cables. I may try a pair of top-post "mil-spec" terminal from Napa at some point in the future. The 4 AWG wire fit fit neatly into the stock rubber boot and loom at the main fusebox. Form a 90* bend in the ring terminal inside the fusebox allowed it to join right up to the stock terminal post and keep everything clean/stock-looking. I replaced the 2 braided ground straps that run from the cam cover to the chassis with 8 AWG. And last but not least, I ran a length of 1/0 AWG from the battery to the truck to supply power a stereo amplifier and AC power inverter. The 1/0 fits through the drivers side accessory grommet, but just barely. I wanted to keep the "wiring train" rolling, so I ran all the wiring for my AEM WBO2 and boost gauges. During the engine swap last year, I had a friend add a bung to the stock downpipe. I am planning on adding a 3" downpipe in the near future, but it doesn't hurt to keep an eye on the AFRs in the meantime. Since there wasn't room in the accessory pass-through, I ran the WB wires through the firewall grommet on the drivers side of the car, then through an open spot on the fusebox to get behind/underneath the dashboard. The boost gauge and oil pressure gauge wiring fits neatly through the accessory pass-through with the stereo power cable. I'm using the previous-gen AEM UEGO, which utilizes a Bosch LSU 4.2 sensor. The current gen uses the newer Bosch LSU 4.9 sensor, and is much faster/more accurate. Conveniently, the LSU 4.2 sensor is the same as the stock front O2 sensor, and the plugs are even identical: This means I can quickly swap sensors between the ECU and the AEM gauge to troubleshoot if I suspect there's an issue with one of them. I made a sub-harness that connects to the stock accessory connector to supply power to all 3 A-pillar gauges (WBO2, boost, and future oil pressure): I replaced the stock accessory connector with a 6 pin weatherpack connector, then ran my relay so that everything is ignition-switched while ensuring there was adequate power supply (10 amps for WB02, <1 amp each for the other gauges). Each gauge plugs into one of the 2-pin weatherpack connectors, and allows me to easily remove one or all the gauges if needed. The junctions are properly parallel-spliced and heat-shrunk. I don't use solder for anything on a car - crimped joints are much more tolerant of the vibration that a car generates and will be more reliable in the long run. Using the proper crimp tool, weatherpack terminals are inexpensive, reliable and easy to terminate: You can save yourself the trouble and buy a pre-made harness from @JVC that plugs right into the stock accessory connector. I installed mine a few days before he put the F/S ad up, otherwise I would've bought one. One day this summer, I ran some errands, went back into my apartment, then came back out to finish unloading the car and saw this mess The piece of heater hose I used to delete the PCV banjo bolt system had failed and was leaking coolant. I pulled it apart, and went to install the stock hose/banjo bolt assembly and ran into a small snag: I'm running an 04 engine, but used the 00 thermostat housing so I can replace the thermostat without needing to remove the whole housing. As it turns out, the 04 PCV coolant hose needed to be trimmed to fit on the 00 housing. Once the hose was cut and the orientation adjusted, it was an easy install. Since I had previously deleted/blocked off the banjo bolt, I took the opportunity to install the updated banjo bolt with the internal check valve, PN 31325709. While I was in there, I replaced the thermostat and put a new o-ring on, and replaced the Reinz thermostat housing gasket with an OEM one. The Reinz gasket had slowly leaked ever since I installed it, so I'm glad that leak is gone. There's factory TSB that advises using 2 gaskets in that location to prevent leaks, but mine has been okay so far. I've got spare gaskets sitting on the shelf if problems arise. While I had the intake manifold off and everything torn apart, I replaced the worn-out vacuum check valves with new OEM valves (PN: 1275226 - thanks @B Mac) and most of the rubber vacuum lines with new silicone lines from FlexTech. The lines I replaced are the TCV lines, CBV line, and EVAP purge valve line. It may not seem like much, but I had been ignoring the vacuum lines since I swapped this engine into the car in January 2019 and I'm really glad I got that sorted out. Here's the stock P80 ME7 vacuum line diagram for reference: I used constant-tension clamps from Bel-Metric to keep each hose securely in place - no more messing around with zip ties to hold those lines on. It also gives the aftermarket lines a nice OEM+ appearance that I appreciate. I used several sizes of clamp based on the various OD sizes of the different hoses. I did not buy the CTC pliers, instead I used a pair of needle-nose vice grips. The vice grips made it easy to lock the clamp fully open, slide it into place, then slowly release the clamp in the orientation I wanted. Each clamp was placed so that future access with the needle-nose vice grips will be as easy as possible. Up next will be the story of my injector woes
    5 points
  19. Drove it 20+ hours round trip. Ran 5 30 minute sessions. Even slept in it. Not the most comfortable car to drive long distances. The car doesn't have AC, PS, ABS, radio, carpet, sound deadening etc. 😂 IEM's + Spotify FTW. The RT615K+'s are a year old. They have a few DE's, and a few autocrosses on them. Plus a few thousand street miles. Very satisfied with them. They last but aren't the stickiest "200TW." I rode shotgun in one Elliott's track cars. Slicks > 200TW. Slicks on another set of wheels might be my next move for the 944. #doitfordale My friend Elliott's Euro RHD S2 won peoples choice award.
    4 points
  20. Alright. We're 2 weeks out from the Overcrest Rally and a couple weeks ago I had an issue with the e30 dying. It started with the water temp gauge on the cluster becoming very erratic - needle jumping back and forth. Then the temp gauge I had installed started doing the same thing. *Note both these gauges are wired separately from each other with their own sensors* The next day it died on me while I was at lunch. It would start up, idle rough, I could get going but any load would cause it to stumble and die. I had a co-worker pick me up, get a new battery, and it ran great. Everything was steady, no issues. Drove it home. Drove it to work the next day. At lunch it died again. It appeared that the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. Fiddled with it for a bit and then it fired up. Drove it back to work and home like nothing was wrong. After the 850 was done, I tried driving it into the garage and it wouldn't start. Confirmed the fuel pump wasn't getting any power. I backtracked fuses and relays to where the main power comes into the engine bay from the battery in the trunk. I was getting 12v at the main lead and only 2 volts at the secondary power supply - which is the power source for the main relay and subsequently the fuel pump relay/fuel pump. The power lines had a good amount of corrosion on them. The battery terminal in the trunk was done haphazardly by the PO with a cheap clamp style terminal and the power lead for the main relay was connected to the clamp via a cheap ring terminal through one of the terminal bolts. All new power wire, new fusible link for the secondary power wire, new solder loaded terminal clamps, and power distribution blocks. I will also make all new ground wires with the leftover wire. Also replaced the AC condenser with what I should have put in from the beginning to accommodate the r134 update. The black one is more for r12 apparently. And yes, it's super wonky. LOVE working on the car in here.
    4 points
  21. And an hour later the test drive confirms I fixed the issue.
    4 points
  22. Lots more changes happened this past month. I installed a clutch slipper which will allow me to dial in the launches and basically just hit the 2 step and then side step the clutch pedal. 99+ P80 clutch master cylinder which has a position sensor that I will use to control flat foot shift. I added a flex fuel sensor and at the same time thought it would be a good idea to redo the fuel lines in black and switch from rubber to PTFE. I also converted everything over to black silicone and all vac lines to -3AN and -4AN. Lastly I built a new intake to practice my aluminum welding and make the bay a bit more presentable. It also fixed a bunch of rubbing issues with the intake. Lastly I threw it on the dyno to clean up the tune a bit. It made some serious power @ 30 psi. 818awhp/595awtq.
    4 points
  23. Had a set back after a 6500 rpm launch that dead hooked @ 20 psi or so. It was one of those launches where I was like "I should probably check the drivetrain." Ended up twisting by rear billet 4340 axle stub adapters. Slipped it pretty well, so I think this failure is an excessive torque failure and not an excessive shock failure. The reason why I had to design these in the first place is so that I could use the 27 tooth spline Eaton Detroit TruTrac LSD in the rear and also use the stronger 960 MKI rear axle. I originally wanted to through harden the V1s but the manufacture was unable to cut the spline after through hardening and cutting the spline before causes deformation after heat treat. This could be solved with test batches but its not feasible for small batches / one off production. Instead they were manufactured from annealed 4340 and the splines induction hardened. Unfortunately this was not strong enough for my application. It did however provide an awesome proof of concept and allowed me to get something working and the car driving. V2 are 4340 through hardened to 50HRC and the spline was cut after through hardening using spark erosion and a 2D DXF drawing of the spline I provided. This achieves incredible strength and a perfect spline fit. The new V2 stubs are calculated to be 2.8x stronger. I will prove this in real life over the next couple of months. They have the following improvements: 1. Proper spline neck down (allows the shaft to twist almost 2x as much as V1s without yielding) 2. Spline length was reduced to be the exact same length as its counterpart. 3. Added another OD to better center the stub in the diff 4. Spark erosion cut spline allowed for through hardening to 50HRC and perfect spline geometry. I also made some overall improvements on the car in this time: New turbo oil feed New boost control system Changed the oil and got a Blackstone oil analysis. I am very happy with the results from the oil report. This engine has about 2500 miles on it with probably close to 400 pulls on it. I have 259 data log files and some of the pulls I haven't logged. There was nothing out of the ordinary detected and the report came to conclusion that the engine is in great health based upon the contents of the oil. Lastly I got the new stubs installed and was able to start ripping on it again. Did about 34 pulls on the new stubs so far. Will launch test shortly. Car pulls really hard in 2nd gear @ 30 psi with zero traction loss or delay. 0.85G so far. Goal is to reach 1G in 2nd gear so that I can horizontally sky dive on demand. Some 2nd gear pulls in the video below. I just finished another round of huge improvements / upgrades. About 90% done so I need to start editing the footage. Stay tuned.
    4 points
  24. I finally got the ride height dialed how I wanted it. This is all the way down on the Maxpeedingrods front coil overs for anyone who cares. I removed the lower adjusting collars, and the spring perch is now tightened down directly against the lower body of the coil-over. This is the stance I've wanted to achieve for a decade and the crazy thing is that it drives way smoother than the R which is on Koni Yellows and IPD springs.. Anyways, it's all aligned now, and the A/C is charged and working. All is good with this car right now.
    4 points
  25. So happy to have the pair of these both back on the road at the same time!
    4 points
  26. I had a chance to weigh the car today. 3560lb (1620KG) with 12 gallons of E85. 3700lb when I stepped on the scale. I weighed it FWD and it was 3300lb without me and 3450lb with me ( with 6 gallons )... so lets say 3350 with 12 gallons. So about 200lb of added weight and insanely improved traction!!!! Seems like a win to me! The gain in traction should significantly out weigh the added weight. If the drivetrain can survive 800awhp highs 9s are possible at this weight. This is full interior, full accessories, spare tire, jack, etc etc. Literally absolutely 0 weight reduction. Really not that bad!! I want to put a 5 point roll bar in the car with seats and harnesses. This will allow me to run 10.00 or slower at offical NHRA events. Those front seats are so heavy my goal is to come out to about the same weight with the added roll bar.
    4 points
  27. Snow globe-esque last night
    4 points
  28. Okay, story time. Fast forward 2 months after having my injectors cleaned and serviced (see post above) and I'm about 1 hour into the 200 mile, 3+ hour drive from my parents house in RI back to my place in NY. If you remember, the last time I made this drive, I popped a tire on a pothole and it took 5 hours to drive the rest of the way on the donut spare. I drove past the area where I got the flat tire and think that was the worst drive home I've ever had. Well, I sure jinxed myself.... I'm cruising along at 65-70 mph and my car starts feeling down on power. I'm mildly confused, but not too alarmed at this point. I assume an intercooler hose is loose or something relatively benign like that. So I make it to the next exit and when I start driving down the ramp, a huge plume of smoke starts billowing out from the back of the car My first thought is that my car was now on fire So I pull over and turn the ignition off, then get out as fast as I can. The smoke died down when I turned the car off, which was both relieving and worrying. I spend some time troubleshooting on the side of the road, but couldn't get my car to start back up again. Now, it's a Sunday afternoon in July, during a global pandemic. It was 90 plus degrees out and I was sweating my ass off on the side of the road with a dead car and 2 hours of highway between me and home. I wasn't having a particularly fun time. With the realization that I wasn't making it back to NY, I started figuring out where I could get my car towed to. I realized I was actually pretty close to Re-Volv, so I called @Tom. to see if he or Nick @NGBwere around and able to give me a hand. As it turns out, Nick was at the shop. Tom called Nick and Nick was kind enough to get the flatbed, drive out, and tow my car back to Re-Volv. I spent another night at my parents place in RI, and waited for an update from Re-Volv. On Monday afternoon, Tom figured out that one of the injectors got stuck open and was dumping fuel into the cylinder. It flooded the motor badly enough to cause it to stall out. Thankfully, it didn't hydrolock the motor or bend a rod. The smoke was from gas burning off in the exhaust system The good news was that when Tom put a used set of green injectors in, it fired up and ran normally again. As proof that no good deed goes unpunished by the car gods, getting my injectors preventatively serviced (to avoid issues) was, of course, the cause of a spectacular failure that left my car dead on the side of the road. But hey, daily driving a 20 year old Volvo is fun, right?
    4 points
  29. 4 points
  30. Hello guys ! Even If it's off-topic, I wanna give my thanks to everyone who helped this proiect reach almost 500 pages (!!!), and wish all of you lots of luck, health and fortune in this new year, and even If we are meant to social distance, I wish to send a virtual hug to everyone out there. Thanks for making VS what it is today ! Happy new year !!!
    4 points
  31. It's not new except to me but I have 6 struts to do in the next couple months and this will make it much easier. The tool lived in a local body shop and while it was well used it was also greased regularly and not abused. They upgraded to a larger one.
    4 points
  32. Getting groceries. Finally lowered it.
    4 points
  33. Front suspension woes - car handles like crap. Reworked the sway bar mounts and end links new control arms and bushings cut off the water pipe tunnel cover to inspect level of damage to pipes made new adaptor plates to fit C30 rear sway bare endlinks to the front - much higher degree of misalignment without binding than the old V70 AWD rear end links used previously MFactory 4.00:1 R&P will go in when I drop the drivetrain to do the HG Finally got the car back from the bodyshop - pouring rain, but it's gonna be like this for days & I just want it home Happy with the nose, the lines where I had to merge the planes came out OK They did have to redo some of my work on top spoiler (modified S40 rear bumper cap)... Started putting the nose back together, now that the suspension /steering work is resolved. Got the 760 sway bar back in with the C30 end links, and SuperPro bushings (SPF1025-23K) Drilled the strut towers for the Ford mounts Got a K20Z3 (RBC-1) head - better flow than the RBB I have now. It is all nicely cleaned, decked & valve seats recut. Keeping the TSX cams & RBC gear limited to 40º. I'll swap it out when I drop the drivetrain to deal with the currently leaking HG, and install the 4:00 R&P. Car went back to the bodyshop this week to fix a few small things that just weren't right. All good now. Worked on the tape stripes and decals whilst the temps are still in the 60's - I cut the decals from 3M 1080 film - easier to deal with than old school vinyl for sure S40 rear bumper cover worked great for the spoiler Used a 3mm gold strip to even out the (hand) cut edge
    4 points
  34. I wouldn't want to be friends with anyone that doesn't love puppies.
    4 points
  35. I guess this technically fits here since we did purchase him lol. Picked up our 8wk old 5.5lb Corgi on the way back from Savannah Sunday. VS, meet Flapjack
    4 points
  36. Okay, now it's actually time for the subframe installation and repairs to the damage caused by the control arm coming out. I drove to my buddy's house to do the work in his driveway. On Saturday morning, I got my car up on jack stands, then got the HF engine bar in place, and started disassembly to remove the subframe, the control arms, the steering rack + tie rods, and the motor/transmission mounts. The front swaybar (stock 20mm with Energy Suspension poly bushings) would come out and get transferred over to the new subframe. By Saturday evening, I had the old parts removed and the new subframe assembly nearly ready to install. To get the AWD-style front engine mount to bolt onto the FWD subframe, there is a small nub on the bottom that contacts the control arm bushing bracket. It quickly gets trimmed off, and problem solved: Starting again on Sunday morning, the new subframe had everything installed, and ready to get installed. Here's the list of new parts for anyone who is interested: Custom powder-coated FWD subframe w/ AWD transmission mount bracket and BNE Dynamics Delrin subframe bushings, OEM engine mounts, OEM 99 AWD transmission mount, TRW remanufactured FWD steering rack with inner tie rods, TRW outer tie rods, Lemforder end links, 93 850 aluminum control arms, new Meyle HD ball joints, new OEM ball joint bolts, and new hardware for everything else. Here is where things started to go sideways... With the subframe lined up and close to installed, I realized the rear engine mount on the FWD steering rack was hitting the downpipe and preventing the rack from moving upwards into position: Knowing that I would have to remove the whole assembly, that was enough to stop my progress for the weekend. Here's how it sat for a week until I could get back to work on it Now, in the process of removing the power steering feed line from the rack a 2nd time in the weekend, the o-ring that seals the line into the the rack was damaged. So I looked up the part number, called the local dealership and ordered a couple of o-rings. I got the o-rings picked up and the next weekend, I started work on my car again. Once the rack/subframe assembly was out of the car, I cut the rear engine mount bracket off the steering rack: Shot it with some black paint to make the cut blend in and soothe my OCD after hacking up a brand new steering rack: When I went to install the new o-ring on the power steering feed line, it was too small and didn't fit. Turns out, I gave them the wrong part number . I had to re-order the right o-rings, so that stopped my progress on re-assembling the subframe for the weekend. When the control arm came out and the wheel got ripped backwards, the fender was yanked outwards as well. I posted some photos of the cosmetic damage in my earlier post. What also happened was that the lower fender bolt bracket got yanked out of the chassis and the captive nut was broken. You can see that at the bottom of the fender here: I was able to find a "license plate nut" at Advance Auto Parts that fit properly and allowed me to bolt the fender back in place. The fender still needs to be replaced, but this kept the lower portion from flapping around as badly as it did before. I also took the opportunity to drain my ~2 year old OEM transmission fluid and replace with Redline Lightweight Shockproof. This calibrated syringe from FCP makes providing the proper 2.1 L of fluid incredibly easy and was a great purchase. I had also noticed that the top mount of the passenger side coilover had gotten a small bend in the accident. Given that my CX Racing coils had been installed for a while and were starting to get rusty, so I decided to replace both front coilovers to be safe. As an unplanned purchase, I couldn't justify JRZs, or even BCs, so I decided to give the Maxspeedingrods non-dampening adjustable coilovers a chance. At $270 shipped, it was worth the gamble. The shipped super quickly, which really was a pleasant surprise for free shipping. They looked alright so I got them installed on the car - I'll share some more detailed thoughts if anyone is interested. I HATE the way the orange powdercoating looks on the car compared to the black CX coils, but it's not that big a deal in the grand scheme of things. Then, on the THIRD weekend of this project, I had the correct PS o-ring and was able to get everything reassembled. Safe to say, it made a tremendous improvement to how the car rides and handles. Between the delrin subframe bushings, fresh control arms, new steering rack / tie rods, the front end feel of the car is totally transformed for the better. My dash mounts are pretty destroyed, and this nearly eliminated all the squeaking over rough roads. Next post I'll talk about alignment / new tires / unexpected issues portion of the subframe install saga...
    3 points
  37. So this car has survived a couple years off the road, and now has survived a divorce and yet I managed to hang on to it. I have been working on it all winter but just recently finished up all the work and got it back on the road. I forgot how much fun this car is. I can't wait to cruise it around this summer. So the list of things I've done recently include: -Timing belt service -Rebuild whole front suspension -Rebuild whole rear suspension including deltalinks and bushings -Installed coilovers, and then decided to put the IPD springs back in the rear as I didn't like how the coilovers fit back there. No complaints up front though. -Fixed several oil leaks and maintenance things -Pulled dashboard and did all A/C parts, heater core, silicone hoses throughout, fiberglassed the dash tabs, de-stickyed the buttons, etc. -Replaced all brakes, rotors, and calipers. Upgraded to 302mm and painted the calipers -Fixed several electrical gremlins and got the Kenwood stereo working great with the SC901 amp -Added a boost gauge and a wideband A/F gauge. Currently working on a pod for them in place of the dolby center speaker * gasp * -Added IPD intake kit -Custom turbo-back exhaust All of the above adds up to a car that feels amazing to drive and it's better in every way then it used to be. And on top of that, i no longer have to worry about my ex crashing the bumper into parking stops lmao. I'm going to be taking it to a local cars & coffee this weekend so I detailed it up, polished all the aluminum under the hood again and got the paint back to a presentable level. I'm really enjoying thins thing now more than ever!
    3 points
  38. I have had this same issue and fried a Cyl 2 coilpack when flashing the very first time I installed COP. In my case this was due to a 10k SMD resistor on the B10 line missing from old outdated instructions I have used, without those instructions mentioning to disconnect the coilpacks during flashing. That is to say, I believe the new instructions simply say not to flash with the coilpacks connected, but on my ECU it was fixed by adding that 10k resistor on the B10 line - it mitigates the 5v output to Cyl 2 during flashing. Unfortunately, and even when looking through my backups, I have since lost the picture that shows exactly which resistor it is. But until that time; just flash with cyl 2 disconnected. It will not happen on other cylinders.
    3 points
  39. Took it on a mountain run. Now to change the oil and button up a couple of things to get it ready for Road Atlanta.
    3 points
  40. Moving along with the floor... sanded the epoxy seams, ground back the rivets, primed & ready to caulk caulked - & final primer inside & out Seam is reasonably concealed on this side. I think once the (3M) Rocker Schutz & Undercoat are applied it will be invisible had time to get first layer of top coat on the inside also made a housing for the power window relay mod - I used 900 series relay sockets - based on this type retainer
    3 points
  41. Finished up my PCV upgrades and also built a new COP harness for my IGN1A coils.
    3 points
  42. Thanks for the kind words! Ill checkout that website. The helmet (3M SPEEDGLASS 9002NC) I got is absolutely fantastic. I went from looking through Vaseline to looking through glass. Its very very clear when there is no arc going and also very clear when there is an arc. I went mandrel because in order to fit 3.5" with all of the AWD crap and good air gaps I need 2" CLR which is only possible with pie cuts. No one will make below 5" CLR for 3.5" OD. My wastegate also dumps to atmosphere so 3.5" with straight through muffler should be plenty for my "4 cyl" up to 1200hp. Finished up the exhaust! Got a bit better at welding and it sounds awesome!
    3 points
  43. Thanks H for the tips. I definitely have found using pulse and fusing the metal together to be the most effective and easiest. I spent a lot of time tuning in the CUP size, gas flow, etc was getting lots of nasty black SS welds in the beginning. I didn't opt for mandrel because the DP needs to use 2" CLR and I wanted as much weld practice as possible. Im quite over the pie cuts at this point though... getting better at welding (still blobby and some pinholes), but getting there! I don't think i will buy prepolished SS again. The welds are weird. They get this weird shiny brown color. Maybe im still using too much heat (50A 1hz pulse 25-50% DC), but Ive been told its left over polishing compound that is hard to remove before welding. Here is some of my latest progress (you'll notice me mention a lot of things you said too) as I've had other tell me the same.
    3 points
  44. Car is running really well in locked 4WD mode
    3 points
  45. I think the issue has been resolved. Right after converting to full time 4WD I think I was hitting oil pressure cut which was making it seem like I was hitting limiter so i was never getting complete pulls. The car absolutely pulls like an animal now in 2nd with it locked 4WD. 1st still spins but 2nd is insane. I still think the viscous coupler was monkeyed as it doesn't slam limiter in 2nd now. Just pulls with full traction. Next Ill try the known working VC once it arrives.
    3 points
  46. How about an OG Zoom?
    3 points