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About wizzard_al

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  1. You pay for the modification to the ECU and get a wiring harness with it. Check his site.
  2. VIDA says nothing about any sealer on the oil pump. Of course, it also neglects to mention the o-ring around the pump. I was putting together a block to potentially ship to someone, and I put in a new o-ring, and I was amazed that it was too big. It actually didn't fit the pump tightly. I wonder if you got an o-ring that didn't fit well, and folder over on the way in, and left a space for oil to leak?
  3. Everyone knows that Hussein has that itch we all experience, but his is stronger and needs more to stop it. I found it hard to believe he wouldn't mod any new car he got, and he proved me right. Just waiting to see what comes next!
  4. You install it for each cylinder being measured. so you do this 10 times for a 5 cylinder engine, 5 each for intake, and 5 each for exhaust. I've got the tool, and your biggest problem is picking the valve tapped that is close in thickness to what you want. that is what takes time if you are installing the cams after having a valve job done.
  5. Good question. Volvo doesn't have instructions for disassembling the M56, they only exchange them from Sweden. So, don't know from that angle. Wonder why he says pink stuff doesn't work? It is used on the head to hold on the cam cover, and also on the pan to block mating surfaces, and those get hotter in all liklihood han the trans. Unless the transfluid eats the pink stuff.
  6. Is this the one you used? http://www.amazon.com/Converter-3-5-28V-1-25-26V-Adjustable-LM2596S/dp/B008ATU2X8 I'm curious, what is the amperage requirement for the injectors. Do you need more than one of these buck/boost converters?
  7. Hussein: Tasca lists them for $4.42 http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/1256343?search_str=1256343 I did not check availability, it is Sunday. BUT, I just ran across a site that says the part was superceded, with the new part number being 31368044 Discount Volvo parts $6.29 http://www.discountvolvopartsonline.com/parts/index.cfm?searchText=1256343&make=Volvo&action=oePartSearch&siteid=217947 So, Tasca give a price on that as well $6.03 http://www.tascaparts.com/oe-volvo/31368044?search_str=31368044 Volvopartswebstore has it as well $6.81 http://www.vol
  8. No, the oil pressure is reduced by the large gap in the rod bearings, and that lowers the pressure everywhere. The oil pressure sender gets it oil from around carnk bearing #4? I think, but it doesn't matter which bearing is bad, the pressure is low everywhere.
  9. Are you sure you can use the 960 EUCU? It is missing the control for the turbo control valve, and I don't know if it has the logic on the control board for that. Also, the ME 4.4 ECU has a pin for the MAP sensor, the outside air temp, and the pressure of the fuel tank. I know that you can bypass that code, but how do you deal with the TCU? If you can do that, then I think you are on the right track, 960 ECU is already to go for COP. You just need to delete plug #6.
  10. You need to look for '99 or '00 S70 turbo cars, I think Hussein said those were the closes to what you want, so that you don't have to fabricate all new water lines to the turbo that that are different in length from the originals.
  11. the RN pan deletes the connections to the radiator, everything is self contained. The N pan has a thermostat in it that directs the oil to the cooler when it gets to a certain temperature. This is missing, and you simply need to forget about the oil line connections to the radiator. You also need the correct water pipes. there are 2 that you need. The one from the water pump to the radiator that goes around the back of the engine, and the one that has the drain cock on it. both have a tube for the water lines to connect to the oil cooler. Hussein has pictures of the various versions of those w
  12. Crank windows came in RN blocks, which started in 1999 mid production. 139.5 mm rods until 2002, when they switched to 147 mm rods.
  13. M4.4 has the baro sensor attached to the passenger side hood latch, the air temperature sensor behind the lower grill, and has the tank pressure sensor above the fuel tank. The first two are readily visible from outside the car. If you have the baro sensor, you have an ME4.4. Just took a '97 GLT apart, and even though the part number on the ECU said it was an ME 4.3, it had all the connections. Strange. But the Volvo wiring diagram clearly identifies the 97 GLT as having the ME 4.4, and no other car has one.
  14. I think you need to read post #2619. That seems to be the best explanation of what is happening. The pressure in the cylinder is rising very fast, and the mixture seems to be pre-igniting. Many people seem to have commented that they are getting engine knock. Well, that is what is happening, the mixture is igniting too soon, and that is putting extreme pressure on the rods as they are not quite to full TDC. Any bit of carbon on the valves can start the pre-ignition, and that turns deadly for stock rods. If you have 1+ bar boost, you are running an effective compression ratio that is far above
  15. Where did you get the syncrho? Salvage from another trans?