andyb5

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andyb5 last won the day on July 29

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About andyb5

  • Rank
    why don't you take a picture, it will last longer
  • Birthday 03/18/1991

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    cars, beer, & architecture

Previous Fields

  • Location
    Troy, NY
  • Crew
    NEC

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  1. That sucks dude! Try to surround the car or even the perimeter of your garage with moth balls. Small animals hate the smell and will almost always stay away.
  2. No other cars around, got stopped safely - yeah, could've gone way worse for sure. Right? Such a weird failure. I apparently excel at finding strange ways to break my car. The subframe with the new welds hadn't even made it onto the car yet This definitely upped my paranoia about random failures - I haven't touched the front suspension in a year or so.... And yeah, definitely a good call to get that all replaced on your car, since rusty shock mounts seem like bad news. Thanks! Yeah, sucks it happened but all things considered, the outcome was decent.
  3. Price seems reasonable. M66 or auto? Plans?
  4. A couple friends have quick jacks. I’ve never put my car up on them, but having worked on other cars on them, they’re plenty stable - more so than regular jackstands. If you’re buying a pair, the 12V model is apparently the best lift speed and you can power it from your car battery or even a jump pack if needed. They do come with riser blocks of different heights if you don’t want to lift your car directly with the jack “platform” on the pinch weld.
  5. Thanks Alex! Okay, so it's not quite time for the subframe install just yet.... I was headed to my soccer game on a Tuesday night in May. I had only made it about 1 mile from my apartment when I went over a large bump at 55-60 mph. I heard/felt an unusually loud sound from the passenger side of the car. It was kind of like I had a flat tire, but worse. I quickly got the car slowed down, then pulled over to the shoulder and got out. This is what I saw: Left behind a pretty noticeable skid mark from dragging the tire:
  6. For a long time I've wanted to swap in a FWD subframe to use 2-bolt control arms. The drivers side 4-bolt arm is really challenging to access because of the M66 case. Several years ago I parted out a 99 V70 NA, and kept the subframe for this project. I was finally able to get started on the project this winter. Using a FWD subframe on an AWD car requires welding the AWD transmission mount bracket onto the subframe. I made a template to locate the bracket on the FWD subframe, then cut the bracket off from an AWD subframe taken from a XC my friend parted out: Once I had the brack
  7. Archived threads come up for me when I search the site like Greg described. Actually just looked thru a few from 2007/8 yesterday Never had good luck using the forum search feature and I’m not surprised that the site has slipped in terms of SEO/google results
  8. Wish I could make it, would be awesome to see you and catch up. Unfortunately I had already made plans before I knew the show was that day.
  9. The 87 RX7 is a model that uses a 23 spline clutch disc for a single mass flywheel and is somewhat cheaper/easier to find clutch options for than for P2 Volvo single mass clutch options.
  10. I second Gabe’s comments about checking out Swedespeed. It’s a bigger forum with a more active user base, especially on the newer models. Volvospeed is primarily focused on 850s, 98-00 S/V70s, 98-04 C70s. Sometimes there’s a little bit of info on the P2 S60/V70s. Anyways, the S80 T6 should be pretty capable - I’ve seen a few of the S60/V70 T6s with bolt-on modifications (intake, downpipe, upgraded intercooler, etc) and a tune make over 300 whp. Haven’t heard anything bad about the transmissions, but adding an external cooler never hurts when you’re making more power. I don
  11. Yeah it’ll fit, no issues or anything
  12. Lookin so fresh and so clean!!
  13. I’m assuming the 850 lock actuators and pins are similar to the S/V70 ones. In addition to actually locking/unlocking the latch, the lock actuator moves an arm that drives the metal lock pin rod up and down. The plastic part you see is attached to the top of the metal lock pin rod. I’ve had actuators get worn out and stop moving the pins up and down. I replaced the actuator with a working used one, but never tried actually fixing just the lock pin portion of the actuator assembly. Hope that all makes sense.
  14. x4 in 225/45/17 to replace my worn out Pilot Super Sports