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Everything posted by venderbroeck

  1. Soo it's been quite a while. As I've already sent to a lot of people, I had to get away from the forums and other volvo related stuff to finish graduating. I'm back again though, so time to catch up again. My engine build has progressed a tiny bit, but not much. I've been looking around for some valve buckets. The valve lash had become too small, as I had ground the seats for the three angle valve job. Those buckets are ~18 euro a piece, and I needed 13 new ones :P After looking around some I had found a webpage online where someone described machining the buckets to size. My unc
  2. With normal gasket, I mean a paper gasket which was originally used on this block. The mls gaskets need a specific finish on both the block and the head. I have seen some of them fail despite having this specific finish done by an experienced machinist. They are probably stronger than the paper gaskets if they are installed correctly, but as I wont run into the limits of the paper gasket it's not worth the trouble for me. The standard gasket (for my block) will suit me just fine :)
  3. Just a normal headgasket. I don't see a reason to swith to the mls gasked, as I'm not aiming for 400+ hp. The open diff, and the local crowded road network would make that a pointless exercise. It also requires a perfectly flat/true deck, and can fail if it is not. I will be measuring the deflection of the head with a special straight steel stock and some feeler gauges. I don't expect it to be bent though, as the engine hasn't overheated, and the gasket that came off it was in good condition. I read the guide on cc polishing here on VS (among many others) which also mentions this.
  4. I believe they are, but I'd have to ask. They are not mine. This is actually the first time I do this. My dad has done the same thing on his head though (the tools are his), so I have seen it done before. I like the low speed cutters, as they are quite controllable. These seats are hardened, so I want to remove as little material as possible. Also because of the solid lifters ofc. I expect the exhaust valves will need the same work, but I gotta clean them up first to see. For the valve lash adjustment I have a little trick up my sleeve which will potentially make things quite a bit
  5. Almost, I would need to use metal polish to accomplish that, but that is going way overboard :p Right now they are oily / greasy so not quite so shiny. Both the pistons and the block where heated. We have good experience with this machinist, so I trust his judgement. I used the correctly colored bearings using the markings on the block and the crank. It turned out I needed all yellow bearings which was convenient. I didn't plasti gauge them though, but volvo's tolerances are generally quite good. About the valve job, it's funny that you should ask. Today I finished th
  6. I think they look quite good actually. They are quite subtle, and make the car a bit more unique. The decal has to go indeed :p
  7. I really like how it looks, you did a good job. The red color is starting to grow on me, especially with the dark trim. What did you do with the black headlights btw? I'd be interested if you want to get rid of them ;)
  8. Didn't have a lot of time to work on my engine, but I got some things done. I fitted the remaining 2 pistons, so the engine now has 5 pistons again! ^^ I also noticed a little valve in VIDA which is located in the sump. It has part no 463963. It's in the oil filter area, and its function was quite mysterious to me. After some searching around I found out that it's function is to quickly vent the air from the filter after an oil change. If oil then tries to push through it it has to close up. If it's worn, or if there's any debris stuck in the valve, it could cause to valve to rema
  9. Haha, more cool volvo electronics are in the works. Later though.. First the results of today's work. :) After asking around a bit, I decided to take off at least one piston ring to check the clearance. Mahle states that the rings have been pre gapped to the correct size so you should be able to install them. Measuring them, they came up fine for the 350-400 hp range I'm shooting for. Then came the time to line everything up to prepare for assembly: I weighed them again, and again 2 of the piston rod assemblies where ~1 gram lighter than the others. I put them in po
  10. I got the pistons from (germany). The polishing was done as follows: -120 grit flap wheel in a hand held drill (shaft of flap wheel was too thick for dremel) -150 grit sanding paper for the parts that could not be reached by the flap wheel. Up until here is by far the most work (several evenings). then: -240 grit sanding paper (one more evening of work) -320 grit wet sanding paper (using water) -400 grit wet sanding paper (using water) -600 grit wet sanding paper (using water) The 3 higher grits where done in one evening. Is it worth it? I don't k
  11. As requested by several people, I will keep a build log of my engine here. There's a few things I plan on doing with this, some of which will be revealed later It all started a few years ago when I decided I wanted to do a very quick build on the original engine of my '94 onyx green volvo 850 t5. The plan was to just fit some h-beam rods, and new big end bearings. Some time later the plan evolved into using the rods to build the broken RN engine that came out of our '00 c70 which had a missing big end bearing. I picked up the idea to hone the cylinders, and fit new piston rings a
  12. It is, I've finally got more or less all the parts to build it. :D I'll probably keep a little build log in here, although most ppl here already saw an engine being built ofc :P
  13. The stock "tetris" ecu is plenty fast enough to prevent overboost if you know what you're doing. It is able to make decisions within a fraction of a degree of crank rotation. With a mbc, the ecu can't compensate for changing circumstances or fault situations etc.. It's hardly a waste of time to preserve and expand upon it's ability to adapt to such situatiins. Of course the mbc seems like the easy way out if all you are looking for is a flat boost curve no matter what, but in the end it's also the inferior option.
  14. Have you tried using the boost control mod yet? It keeps the ldr routines deactivated until a set pressure mark is reached. This prevents the tcv duty from inflating itself to max if there's no turbo pressure at all yet. After that it limits the tcv duty until a second set pressure is reached, again preventing the tcv duty to max out prematurely. It almost completely eliminates the overshoot issues.
  15. Looks like KFDWWEAC has an extra correction on top of that what's in KFDWWELL then.
  16. That's probably down to e85. Normally you wouldn't see any enrichment at idle on gasoline.
  17. Then it has to be the evap system. I don't think it can be lost air, as a vacuumleak would cause a lean condition in stead of a rich condition.
  18. Maybe it has to do with the evap valve opening. IIRC it should compensate when that happens, but maybe it doesn't for some reason, and so the extra fuel vapor from the canister causes a rich condition. Could be easily tested by disconnecting & plugging the evap canister temporarily.
  19. The fuel map stays in the 1.x range because you calibrate the injector constant to make it so. So with properly calibrated injectors you would expect the ve map to be close to 1. If you wouldn't change the injector constant, then yes you would see quite different numbers in the ve map. Load is also dependent on RPM, so you would have to take that into account if you want to check the difference between injectors.
  20. In theory yes. In practice the difference isn't very large. Especially not when talking about ldr setpoint. It shouldn't give you any problems.
  21. The load is based off of the current injector constant. So it changes with different injectors.
  22. The higher voltage parts of the graph are very steep. So small errors in de model will be amplified. So really high kg/h numbers like that (almost twice the stock ceiling) can potentially be off quite a bit. It doesn't matter much tuning wise ofc, but it can throw off rough hp guesses.
  23. the xdf is suitable for both bins. The adx you have there is for bench testing purposes, you need the non test adx.
  24. I believe there is still a rev5_test.adx file on the mirror somewhere. You can use a stock 608 rev5b bin, and that adx to connect on the bench. Then you can rig up a potmeter as a voltage devider using the ecu +5 volt pin and ground to create a variable input voltage on the maf pin.