Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!


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Excellent research and empirical data collecting!

The audi Maf isn't bad. It just doesn't perform as expected for a3" maf. It performance is about equal to a S90/960 Maf.

Whether a shim will improve things, we will find out in a few days from now.

I would expect it to match the aluminum case with the correct offset. In these 3" ID and 3.75" ID casings, and the stock 2.5" casing, the filament base tip (slight raised area) is 1/8" back from the center of the stream. As I mentioned the Audi and Volvo versions of the MAF sensor has identical offset - approx 58mm from the inside flange to the tip of the shoulder filament base - the measurement point according to the Bosch MAF spec sheet.

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Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated. Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. Before asking any questions p

Crush it.

After alot of testing and rewriting code, we finally got a useful new mod working. As we all know, some time ago my dad Piet found out how to convert to bigger maf housings with the maf factor. Conver

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Guys, I'm sorry for bringing this noob theme but I've already tried 2 FT232RL chipset vagcom cables with no success and now I noticed that on wikia, despite it mentions FT232RL cables, the one posted there (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251088284958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) is actually a RS232RL chipset!

It seems something is not correct. I guess the RS232RL may be the correct chipset to look for, no?

Thank you and sorry.

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Guys, I'm sorry for bringing this noob theme but I've already tried 2 FT232RL chipset vagcom cables with no success and now I noticed that on wikia, despite it mentions FT232RL cables, the one posted there (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251088284958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) is actually a RS232RL chipset!

It seems something is not correct. I guess the RS232RL may be the correct chipset to look for, no?

Thank you and sorry.

That one works, I'm using it FTDI RS232RL. Why not just buy from them? They don't exclude Portugal.

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From testing in situ the difference between the same 3.25" and 3" MAF with and without air straighteners is significant. With the 3.25" and no air straightener air fluctuates ±6 kg/hr, with an air straightener its around ±2.5kg/hr. Considering the air consumption at idle is 14kg/hr that is a substantial difference.

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Yes, we thought of that to.

That's why we want to do a test with a shim of 5 mm to get the sensor more in the center and see if there is an improvement.

If not then it has to be the lack of the air straightener that makes the difference.

Fabricating an airstraightener is somewhat less simpeler.

But I have to say that the curve we've got isn't a fluctuating one, it follows the curve of the S90 maf rather precisely.

So our suspicion is that the sensor being off center is the main cause.

Edited by Piet
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Guys, I'm sorry for bringing this noob theme but I've already tried 2 FT232RL chipset vagcom cables with no success and now I noticed that on wikia, despite it mentions FT232RL cables, the one posted there (http://www.ebay.com/itm/251088284958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649) is actually a RS232RL chipset!

It seems something is not correct. I guess the RS232RL may be the correct chipset to look for, no?

Thank you and sorry.

The problem i think is'n your VAG COM cable, all the cables you've mentioned should work.

It could be a driver problem. Did you use the driver mentioned in the WiKia

Just to be sure, you did flash the rev5 bin first right?

Otherwise it will not work.

Edited by Piet
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The problem i think is'n your VAG COM cable, all the cables you've mentioned should work.

It could be a driver problem. Did you use the driver mentioned in the WiKia

Just to be sure, you did flash the rev5 bin first right?

Otherwise it will not work.

Yes, I used the driver in wikia and I've also tried other drivers with no success.

I tried the rev5 bin. However no matter bin I try to flash the problem it is when erasing. It say start erasing and a little after I get timeout.

That one works, I'm using it FTDI RS232RL. Why not just buy from them? They don't exclude Portugal.

I was trying to avoid buying that one because of the shipping costs, shipping delay, customs, etc etc. It takes much longer to get that one.

I tried these cables with free obd softwares like EasyOBDII and OBD Auto Doctor. These cables don't work with these softwares I think but I was able to get those software working (reading that from the car) with my bluetooth OBDII adapter.

Those cables only worked with VCDS-Lite software. I think might be some problem with these cables interface / protocols. I'm doubting they support the right protocol for our ECU's (I think it is an ISO XXX).

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What kind of ECU are you trying to flash? I had an ECU which had been tuned by a tuning company. It had a custom flash chip soldered inside, which couldn't be erased, creating the same problem you describe.

We got rid of the flash chip, and used that ECU for an Ostrich 2.0.

Also what kind of voltage are you applying to the ECU? Most of the ECU's we tried won't flash below 13v or so.

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@S70-R

The cable itself doesn't support any protocol. It has to be a simple non-intelligent cable.

It's only purpose is to convert voltage levels of the K-line to TTL level (0-5V or 0-3V) and then this is transfered through USB connected to the computer as a Virtual RS232 port. This is the job of the FTDI chip.

Software that is made for intelligent interface like ELM327 will not work with this cable.

Post a screenshot from the Device Manager on your PC when the interface is connected.

Also try software like Realterm and send a byte to the com port and see if you get an echo.

You have previously mentioned using COM 1. That is quite strange for a virtual USB COM port.

Try also to measure the voltage on the K-line, and see if it changes when you send 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 at a very slow baud rate.

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What kind of ECU are you trying to flash? I had an ECU which had been tuned by a tuning company. It had a custom flash chip soldered inside, which couldn't be erased, creating the same problem you describe.

We got rid of the flash chip, and used that ECU for an Ostrich 2.0.

Also what kind of voltage are you applying to the ECU? Most of the ECU's we tried won't flash below 13v or so.

I'm trying to flash a 612 ECU (from a 98 V70R). The ECU has no custom chip soldered and/or socket.

It has the stock eprom as far as I can see and no signs of soldering. Based on the seller, this is a non changed ECU and I believe it. It really seems ok.

I'm applying 14v on it.

I always get the same error, no matter the ECU is runing and/or the k-line is connected or not.

@S70-R

The cable itself doesn't support any protocol. It has to be a simple non-intelligent cable.

It's only purpose is to convert voltage levels of the K-line to TTL level (0-5V or 0-3V) and then this is transfered through USB connected to the computer as a Virtual RS232 port. This is the job of the FTDI chip.

Software that is made for intelligent interface like ELM327 will not work with this cable.

Post a screenshot from the Device Manager on your PC when the interface is connected.

Also try software like Realterm and send a byte to the com port and see if you get an echo.

You have previously mentioned using COM 1. That is quite strange for a virtual USB COM port.

Try also to measure the voltage on the K-line, and see if it changes when you send 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 0x00 at a very slow baud rate.

I'll try that, thank you.

I'm at office now so I can't put the screenshot but later on I'll do it.

COM 1 is the port after I've changed it. Of course when I install the cable it does not install on COM 1.

Edited by S70-R
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From testing in situ the difference between the same 3.25" and 3" MAF with and without air straighteners is significant. With the 3.25" and no air straightener air fluctuates ±6 kg/hr, with an air straightener its around ±2.5kg/hr. Considering the air consumption at idle is 14kg/hr that is a substantial difference.

This is interesting, as I don't seem to see that much deviation with / without the the straightener. I added one back after previous comments on the effect of the straightener, but I cannot say that it makes any difference on my setup. Perhaps it has more effect on a stock cam / base idle setup? Mine does not idle with similar values to stock.

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