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The design looks good to me, i don't think that it will effect the maf performance.

Especially with the 45 degree elbow in front of it.

I have done a test with a 90 degree elbow in front if it, even that had no effect on the maf performance.

Athough I would prefer an airfilter with a 80 mm neck and 80 mm alu elbow performance wise, but if it would really matter? ....questionable.

I'll try this setup instead of getting a bigger filter. I will use your s90 maf values and I will report my fuel trims values :) that will assure the setup is ok.

Getting a bigger filter would mean spending more money once I will always need a silicone connector and a 45º alum pipe.

If I get trouble with the setup I'll consider the option you said :)

Thank you.

I'm just braking my mind about my flashing ECU problem... :(

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Attention: The first 30 or so pages of this thread are outdated. Please refer to the M4.4 Wikia article where all the relevant information is currently being collated. Before asking any questions p

Crush it.

After alot of testing and rewriting code, we finally got a useful new mod working. As we all know, some time ago my dad Piet found out how to convert to bigger maf housings with the maf factor. Conver

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Such things really can be a pain in the ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD (what the .... that wasn't what I typed, lol) I can understand that.

But maybe you should start a new topic for your problem with the flashing.

Edited by Piet
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Finally got home after work and did some tests.

I have some good and some bad news.

Bad news:

- With the ECU out of the car I can't successfully connect with realterm no matter the baud rate is. In hex mode and depending on the baud rate I got these:




Even worse news:

- With the ECU on the car the car doesn't start and the radiator fan immediatly kicks in (it seems the ECU got screwed in the middle of a lot of flashing attempts. I believe the ECU bin was partially erased/damaged and that should be solved with a successful reflash. Right???)

Good news:

- With the ECU on the car I can SUCCESSFULLY connect with real term. I send a space and it gives me back "CR".

- I have also tried to connect realterm with my untouched 611 stock S70R ECU on the car (I don't want to test my stock ECU on the bench, of course!) and I'm also successful on that and I also receive the same "CR" echo from the ECU when sending a space


- Somehow my bench wirings are not ok

- Somehow my bench voltage is not ok

I'm going to buy a multimeter now to check the voltage.

Any other ideas? I believe my wirings are ok and I've tested all of them, they work. I'm using only one ECU ground pin (A42). Should I use more than one? In wikia it says they are all the same so it doesn't matter but who really knows if it has any effect on it...

Edited by S70-R
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If you can connect but the voltage is too low you'll get a voltage out of range error. When I was trying to flash with a knock off cable it could erase the flash, but now write to it. In the majority of cases with an incorrect flash the coolant fan will be stuck on. This is due to an interrupt routine not properly setting the state for the fan output on reset.

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Everything you send to the ECU will bounce back because the K-line is a single wire. This is NOT a response from the ECU.

Getting CR seems a bit strange unless you have sent it yourself.

You should normally not get any response at all by the ECU itself if you just send a few characters or bytes. (I'm not familiar with the special logging software though.)

In boot mode you may get some response if you send enough numbers for the ECU to believe it has received a command.

You should try connecting all GND wires. (I have skipped A18). Electric noise may be causing false serial signals.

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Thank you for the additional info. I'll have to see if I can get a larger screen for my new 3.75" ID housing before I install it.

Ordered the 3'75" honeycomb air straightener from the same source I used for the 3.25" and now the 4" MAF housing - mrpmachineshop469 - great people to deal with.

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EDIT, Didnt read the above properly.

So... Injectors, what difference between injectors too much? Had mine tested and one is +12% and one is -8%

So, a 20% discrepancy - I'd say that's more than you want. Maybe fine or at least not so bad on a completely stock car, but on one you are modifying???? Get rid of them ASAP.

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Well, I checked the voltage of this supposed 14v unit and I'm getting 17,5v!

This is too much according to the information on wikia (max should be arround 16.8v) and may explain my problems.

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The ECU is extremely resilient to high voltages. I've tested up to 25V :blink: and the ECU has been fine.

I popped one at 16v. That was the first ECM I tried to flash. I hooked it up, it erased, then the memory chip cooked. Same cable and setup that I'm flashing with now except powered with a battery charger. Each one is different. 14v shouldn't cause any issues though. You can try to put a high resistance Potentiometer in parallel with the main power feed and use the voltmeter to adjust the voltage where you need it. Basic variable power supply.

Edited by Chrispy_T
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The ECU is extremely resilient to high voltages. I've tested up to 25V :blink: and the ECU has been fine.

When I say "too much" it is too much for the flashing job. I believe (or at least I want to) this ECU is ok, just the bin has been erased/damaged.

On wikia it mentions 13.5v-16.8v as flashing range (i think you were the one who wrote that).

Somehow you had conclude that...

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Anyone have any logs with green injectors and a 19T (or other turbo)?

Im trying to nail down my fueling issue.

so AFR = Mair / Mfuel

I flow around 260 g/sec at 5000-5500 RPM,

12 = 260 / X

X = 21.6 gfuel

21.6 / .162(mass in grams of fuel per cc) = 133.33 cc/gram / 1000 = 0.133cc/ms

0.133 / .0073cc/ms (for 440cc greens) = 18.26 ms which correlates to ~80% IDC @ 5500RPM.

According to my logs at around 5000RPM is when AFR's go haywire and even with Injection Time at 25 ms(120+ IDC) i can only hold a 13AFR.

Also I checked my math with some real data and the above equation is very accurate. I thinking a clogged fuel filter (215K) is causing not enough volume of fuel to be delivered because I know plenty of people using greens and flowing around same amount of air mass.

Edited by Simply Volvo
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Well..... I did the testing on this one:


which is 3.5"OD, 3.25"ID

Don't know if another type 3.25" MAF like in your link wil give the same results, though.

While testing a 3" ID maf it became clear that the position of the sensor in the maf has a great influence on the voltage output of the maf.

So if for instance the mounting flange for the sensor differs in height my maftable will not be valid for that one!

The plastic bosch like MAF is much cheaper than the aluminum one, while the latter has no real advantages anyway.

It appears that as long as the flow through the maf stays laminar it will not matter what's behind it.

Haven't tested a reducing elbow from 3.25" ID to 2.5" yet,

But I will be doing that soon as i'am planning to do a permanent install of the 3.25" ID maf on my 2.5" intake tube.

did you come up with a maf table for that sensor yet. I'm chomping at the bit right now.

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While we're on the subject of intake tube and maf size I am going to mention something I have never heard mentioned on VS yet.

A turbocharger pulls air into the intake of the compressor housing from around the intake port, not directly in front of it. Picture a tornado, that is what the air going into the turbocharger would look like if you took the intake tube off. Any intake tube on a turbo creates intake air turbulance. If you do a google search you can find some old air research smoke test videos. My point here is that so many here have mentioned using an intake tube off of something else that will hook right up to the maf. In reality we need to use the largest tube we can find to fit to the turbocharger to allow the air to spiral into the turbocharger intake.

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