First post since I've joined this community, I hope everyone who's reading this is having a good day.
Here's my issue/cry for help.
I have a 95 Volvo 850 T5... B5234FT I believe.
It has a manual transmission and currently around 120K Kms (75K Miles).
I have the goal of reaching 320/350hp with it, I've been told that yeah it's possible on stock internals... No, it's impossible on stock internals, I don't know...
What it currently has...
1 - k&n Air filter was the first mod
2 - Cat-delete, pretty much a straight tube instead of the catalytic converter (Stock exhaust diameter)
3 - Revised all the vacuum lines, replaced the radiator since it was leaking, read all the codes (there's still one that's bothering me, since I can't find out what it is)... along with a few other things to make sure it's running properly... Even though there's always something else to fix.
4 - Got an ebay tune (Don't kill me, it was through a known friend that's been running the same tune for 2 years)
5 - Suddenly got a good deal on a TD04HL-19T Turbo and I just went for it!
Installed the damn thing, took me and a friend 12 hours to do it only to realize it doesn't fit the downpipe... No worries, I wanted to upgrade the exhaust anyways.
6 - This is for the future, I plan on getting a custom exhaust for it, full 3 inch with a sports cat and one muffler, maybe a magnaflow one, still not too sure (open to suggestions)
7 - After the exhaust I'll be getting it tuned, and for that I got some 480cc injectors to replace the stock orange ones to make sure the thing doesn't run out of fuel or something (Will I need to upgrade the fuel pump as well?)
8 ---> After installing the turbo, exhaust, injectors and then getting it tuned, I got the goal of getting it up to 320/350hp.. hopefully that's a realistic number...
I also got these two questions.
Is it ok to run the 19T on the ebay tune? (tune sets the max boost to 1.2bar(17.4psi) )
Can I install the injectors and drive around until I get it tuned, or should I just install the injectors once I've gathered enough money for said tune?
I'm just looking for some guidance on how to do things properly, what I've learned so far is from just reading stuff and such... this car is what I'm using to learn more about the whole car scene, as in, I do everything I can myself, either by watching videos, reading forums, or just grabbing some tools and going for it.
If I'm doing anything wrong, or if I could be doings things a little bit better, I'd appreciate it if someone managed to point them out, I'm always up for learning new things.. In fact, that's why I joined this...
But anyways, thanks for the help!
Have a nice day!
What’s up guys!
I’m looking to buy a used 240mm 850r/early x70 pressure plate, p/n 272 218
i have a local shop that is willing to rebuild it for me with beefier diaphragm for more 00mph !
Cant find locally here im Montreal Canada, so seller must be willing to ship to Montreal! 🙏🏼
brick on 🧱🌪🇸🇪🦌
Turns out long time lurker 1st time poster. Figured this would be the place to go with a pretty specialised problem as the m4.4 people are here.
This is the car I've owned for 12 years now:
it's not super sexy but it's mine. i have a 164TE, 1800E, 2 C202s and another almost identical 850 except a wagon (very early production 93 model also)
It started life as a 2.0 20V auto which is not bad if you're prepared for the tacho to visit 3PM frequently but through circumstance I got a B5254S and an M56 from a 2.0 (4.45 final drive) and that made the car actually faster than I anticipated. I drove it like that for 6 years but the engine was tired and blowing more smoke than I was comfortable with. About 3 years ago a valve chipped so I threw another head on and drove it for another year but then the week before I was scheduled to fly out to Australia for 2 months it chipped another valve and so I decided the time had come. I already had a B5244T3 sitting aside and I had already rebuilt a 16T turbo for it so last summer I finally put the car on blocks in the backyard and ripped the engine out. Over the winter I did a stage zero on the B5244T3 and rebuilt the steering rack while I had the subframe out to fix a leak and also got access to a full 98 xc70 so took everything relevant to the M4.4 setup from it and worked it onto the B5244T3. Finally, this May just gone I had everything ready and started putting the car back together and after working slowly on it the past 2 months On Thursday I was finally ready to turn the key for the 1st time. My 1st actual attempt to start it failed and so I did checks and the 1st thing I found was that the injectors only pulse for about a second before turning off but then when I release the key an injector or 2 fire once. This happens every time I crank. I tried several very short cranks and the car actually fired up! I ran it for about 20 mins and after about 5 mins the lambda light came on but there's no surprise there as there are no o2 sensors yet as there is still no exhaust and the ecu is an auto one so that might also have thrown the code but the car did run for about 20 mins but then i turned it off and so far haven't been able to get it running again.
This is how the engine bay looks right now:
So, I think if you've read this far you can probably figure what my question is but I'll ask anyway: Would anyone have an idea what's going on? To recap, when the car is cranking, the injectors fire for maybe a second then stop but then when I stop cranking an injector or 2 may fire again. I've checked power to the ecu and on cranking I get 10.4V which I guess should be enough and I cleaned all of the contacts between the battery and ecu quite well so I don;t think it's an issue of power. Things I'm about to do are check spark to see if I lose spark too or just injectors and then maybe throw a cam sensor and crank sensor in desperation but I'm hoping someone has either encountered this before or has enough of an idea of how the M4.4 system works to help me figure this out. BTW I do have a video of it happening but not sure how to post it here. But yeah, If you have any questions about converting a 2.0 NA auto car to a turbocharged manual then feel free to ask
2006 Volvo v70 (120,000 miles) part out list of parts below:
Trunk hatch carpeted trim
Car jack and breaker bar red handle and tow bar
Windshield wiper motor
Fuel door lock solenoid
Antenna amplifier (green or orange x2)
Ignition switch starter
Turn signal stalk
Seat belt restraints (x2)
Door sill plates (x2)
Metal radio pocket
Volvo plastic radio pocket
A/C control unit
Side view mirror left
Servotronic fuse relay
Windshield wiper stalk
Overhead light driver front
Rear bumper trim (x2)
Rear speaker covers
Driver motor seat controls
Passenger motor seat controls
Steering wheel column cover
Door speaker covers front (x2)
Center console trim (x2)
Rear carpeted trim panels (x2 one thin one thick)
Rear cargo upper trim with dome light
Side view mirror right
Wooden door handle trim pieces (x4)
Fuel pump regulator
Overhead dome light rear
Windshield rain sensor
Tan headrest with long spikes
Tan headrest with brackets (x2)
Rear armrest with cupholders
Flip down sun shield left (red wire)
Flip down sun shield right (green wire)
Rear view mirror and wiring harness
Power steering pump tank
Right upper brake light
Right lower brake light
Armrest for front seats
Driver window switch box
Front passenger window switch
Rear speakers (x2)
Side airbags (x2)
Rear fuse relay box
Rear third brake light
Emergency brake with leather
Rear trunk speaker trim (x2)
Right rear trunk carpet trim
All 4 door panels
Back hatch carpeted floor (x2 one thin one thick)
Rear bottom single seat
Single seat leather upper
Double seat leather upper
Left and right rear seat bolsters
Right front carpet
Left front carpet
Drivers front seat
Passenger front seat
Rear trunk hatch trim
Braking systems (x2)
Emergency brake trim (x2)
Center console back plate
Passenger lower dash cover
Floor door trim (x2)
Front door handles
License plate frame
Seat railing covers
Instrument cluster 163000
Trunk trim (long back piece (x2) and shoulder piece
Floor door trim (x2 longer pieces)
Rain sensor cover
Dash radio storage box
Fuse panel cover
Gas tank cover
Front air bag crash sensor
Rear air bag crash sensors
Air bag impact sensor
Hazard light switch
On pallet not in box:
Door pillar vents (x2)
Windshield wiper motor cover with seal
Trunk pillar covers (x2)
Left side skirt cover
Right side skirt cover
Left and right side door trim panel moulding (x2 longer)
Left and right side door trim panel moulding (x2 shorter)
Trunk trim with cut out for lock
Trunk trim no cut out
Left and right trim railings (x2)
I am a long time loyal Volvo owner that has owned many Volvos over the years and owned P2 Volvos for a long time. I never once felt the need to go aftermarket until my horrible experience with our 2016 XC70 rear brakes.
After my experience I feel like the TRW sourced rear pads don’t hold up. They are so bad in my opinion I have a hard time believing they are even TRW and wonder if these are actually Lucas since I believe TRW acquired Lucas. If that’s the case I’m not sure why Volvo would have sourced these but I think it would have to do with cost.
I used to get up to 70,000 miles out of our P2 rear brakes so I know it’s not us. Personally, I don’t buy that it’s due to EPB or increased rear brake bias because the fronts still get the most brake distribution.
I feel completely screwed because I don’t see any aftermarket alternative that I really feel comfortable with. I know people will throw all kinds of things out there but I need something high quality members have used for a long time and proven. When I say proven I mean original braking performance, smoothness, quiet with no noise but actually hold up in my opinion where I can get at least 30K from rear brakes. The problem I am having is everything is questionable. When I have tried even what were supposed to be quality aftermarket pads with my first Volvos many years ago they always seemed inferior and they always made noise.
It also seems like everything aftermarket is now ceramic.
My first instinct was ATE Pads but they appear to be ceramic. My concern is one website said ATE 602736 pads were discontinued and I found some on ebay but it makes me concerned there may have been some issue and even if they are great I may not be able to buy them for very long anyway so this option doesn’t look good.
My second instinct is TRW has what I think they are pushing as kind of a premium black series pad. I looked at the reviews of these pads used with other brand vehicles and the reviews seem good and say they are quiet with good brake performance which has me leaning toward these.
Textar was a brand I was considering but I believe that I read a forum post from a BMW owner that put these and Brembo rotors on the rear and said something I think like he kind of feels a delay before they grab unlike original brakes. This is something I cannot accept because I need something with original braking performance.
I have seen Pagid brake pads but personally I think they look like too hard of a pad where there may be noise or decreased braking performance in my opinion.
I am leaning toward the TRW Black TPC1307 Pads
Now for rotors I don’t know if the rotors with uneven wear rings, grooving and scoring I never seen before that you can see in my video are because Volvo is now using a really soft rotor material or just the pads being inferior in my opinion did this. Now I’m trying to decide if I should go with Volvo rotors or try aftermarket.
The only possibly decent aftermarket rear brake rotor I found seems to be Brembo 09958711. I would NOT go with Brembo aftermarket pads because I think I saw a review complaining about noise even when using with Brembo rotors. My only concern is that I remember when I tried Brembo rotors years ago with my first Volvos Brembo had started putting these stupid wear indicator dimples in the contact area even though none of the online photos showed these. I believe I called them to complain and think I ended up sending the rotors back.
Also, how low should you safely be able to wear your rear brake pads down to? Shouldn’t you be able to wear pads down to 2 or 3mm safely and as long as there is still some pad material left the rotors shouldn’t be grinding or scored? I know this sounds like a stupid question but I never experienced anything like this.
Here is a video that shows the pads and rotors so you can see the wear
Here is my article I wrote about my new Volvo rear brake experience
I’m leaning toward the TRW Black TPC1307 rear pads with Volvo rotors and seeing what happens but it’s not a cheap experiment if the rotors are somehow part of the problem and wear like before so it’s kind of a tough one.
I would appreciate proven suggestions for P3 aftermarket rear brakes.