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The R disc doesn't cover the full surface of the 707 PP. With the R PP the "missing" friction surface area isn't present. 

With my white 850 M66 conversion I tried to use an S60R friction with the 850 R PP. Here it was the other way around. Friction surface was larger than PP surface plus the friction was roughly a mm to thick. I wonder if the 707 also doesn't need a 9 mm thick friction plate. 

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Long time no update... I finally got around to putting some more work into the car, trying to get it ready for hitting the 1/4 this year.  Last time I put the valve cover back together it was aft

I also got some new wheels. Wrapped in some Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's, they're stock equipment on the Ford Focus RS in 235/45R18 so I was able to pick up a never mounted set on CL for $250

This is why I haven't bought the springs yet. I'm not sure if .96" is too much 'soft' ride height. I could go with shorter 350# springs for about .5" of 'soft' travel, which might be a little more pre

I'm a bit surprised by your choice for the ACT clutch, normally you would say that the 707 in combination with the R disk can maintain the right amount of torque for your setup. Any specific motivation tgat you went with ACT? Would be interesting to know, as I am dropping in my 707 next weekend with R disk.

He has a m66, he can't use a R disc, different spline count...

707 + 850R disc is fine for 700NM.

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Coming together nicely. DP looks great.  Does it give you room to access the AG flange bolts - I had trouble with that on my first DP.. Are you putting the flex coupler right after the flange?

Curious where the silicone heater hoses are sourced - might need to go that route next time I need to replace them. 

 

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Coming together nicely. DP looks great.  Does it give you room to access the AG flange bolts - I had trouble with that on my first DP.. Are you putting the flex coupler right after the flange?

No problem getting to the flange bolts, although the DP needs to come off to remove the BG. Doesn't take much time to undo the V-band clamps though.

The car has been together for 2 months at this point, and yes the flex coupler is about 4" after the v-band. And before you ask, yes it is has the interlock liner.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally finished my intake today. The bottom half I did when before I finished the swap and was my first real AL welding experience. No one makes a tight enough mandrel bend in 3.5" to fit, so I had do some more pie cuts.

oszw

SYU0YZ9G

z-fr

I also added some LS2 coils about a month ago.

AdbZ

 

 

Edited by Tightmopedman9
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7 Pages in and no one caught this on page 2?  Hahaha nice one 'Ron!  Great thread, its no Saab though hahaha

That's right, it's no Slaab... 

I also added some LS2 coils about a month ago.

engine%20detail.jpg?dl=0

 

Nice Work on the intake. Practice definitely makes progress when it comes to aluminum welding 

Did shifting the voltage axis fix your issues with the dwell? I still haven't yet switched back to mine to see if the table revision resolves the breakup I experienced.

 

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I'm a bit surprised by your choice for the ACT clutch, normally you would say that the 707 in combination with the R disk can maintain the right amount of torque for your setup. Any specific motivation tgat you went with ACT? Would be interesting to know, as I am dropping in my 707 next weekend with R disk.

can't use the 850R disc with the M66 because of the different input shaft, the ACT is the same specs but beefier and with the proper 23x1 pline for the input shaft of the gearbox.  The Sachs SD693 disc was an OEM ford/mazda disc that works with the 850R pressure plate for use in later M56s or M66s

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Yes, fixing the dwell map axis and not over dwelling the crap out of the coils helped a lot. Although, I wish I had just gone with the IGN-1A coils from the beginning. I hate thinking about the thin line between a fully saturated coil and spark scatter. I've been keeping the dwell at 3.7ms @ 13v to stay on the safe side. That's gotten me 23psi at .028" with no blowout.

Very nice!  You guys that can weld like that frigging amaze me; very cool indeed.. 

Stock intake manifold?  Temporary?

Ill be fabricating a new manifold soon. I just wanted to get a before and after dyno, so I'm waiting until the car is fully tuned on E85.

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  • 1 month later...

Just replaced valve stem seals and re-did the cam cover crankcase baffles. I dropped a keeper that I assumed flew out of the valve cover. I guess it didn't...  Motor may need to come out, I'm waiting for the morning for a full diagnosis.

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