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On 8/28/2019 at 9:01 AM, tuner4life said:

Check that the prop shaft bolts are tight, and snug up the crimp-clamp on the boot. Mine did this last year on the front yoke and the bolts had actually worked themselves a little loose.

So they seem to be tight, Oetiker clamp is as tight is it could be from what I can tell. Maybe clean and see if it comes back. 

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Very much icing on the cake at this point. A shift boot made from pieces of and R seat. 

OK so, Had the rear seal replaced on the angle gear as well as the fluid changed out. No longer leaks on the hot exhaust making the terrible terrible stench. Started in on wrapping the exhaust and g

Alright I should see there return early next week but the kind people at Performance Shock Inc were gracious enough to provide me with some pictures of the rebuild and testing process. 

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On 6/5/2019 at 3:14 PM, apeacock said:

bzhQWBw.jpg

This is the worst location of the nitrogen reservoirs, you are constantly cooking them. I used my the same way until got recommendation by Thomas from TME Sweden, when ordered springs for ohlins road kit. That was the first thing he mentioned when discussed its adjustments and shoch damper settings

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8 hours ago, Andzey said:

This is the worst location of the nitrogen reservoirs, you are constantly cooking them. I used my the same way until got recommendation by Thomas from TME Sweden, when ordered springs for ohlins road kit. That was the first thing he mentioned when discussed its adjustments and shoch damper settings

Not the first person to bring this up. 

Talking with Ohlins USA "I don’t really know of a max temperature, you would prefer to keep them as cool as possible. I would say just from my track experience to have the best performance keep them around 150 to 200 would be optimum.  "

Drivers side could be easily moved, the passenger side is harder to re-position though. If you figure out a spot to place them I'd give it a shot. 

I used the temp stickers and determined they reach about 180 in there after a long drive. 

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On 9/1/2019 at 1:24 PM, Andzey said:

With some minor cutting, those cans could be hidden beneath windshield plastic, near cabin filter for passenger side, and side by side with fuse box for driver

have to balance the cost to rebuild with the enjoyment factor of seeing them though 🙂 

Was also thinking more on this and It's certainly interesting to debate. But my recent thoughts were, these are all probably made in a similar way right? N2 + some oil + magic? 

How do these fair then on a big sexy beast like this?

JBJCK3Th.jpg

Edited by apeacock
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Swapped out the very tattered turbo blanket with an updated version and got a new IWG that has a pivot to it. Turbo smart Gen V adds a pivot joint. 

ICKHQH6h.jpg

vjI96xAh.jpg

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I think it builds boost better now, the angle the old IWG rod had was scoring the brass seal on the bottom and seemed to be an issue. Actuation is much better now as well. 

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On 7/10/2020 at 1:37 PM, Ol' Dirty Noodle said:

Aaaaannnddd that’s why I’m so thankful for Audi’s modular dash

This was a two person extraction for sure. 

Plastic epoxy to get the position correct on the mounts
FgoahNi.jpg

Holding all the bits in place

WwWQWWS.jpg

Fiberglass goo and the fabric they provide in the little kit. 

YQAWxoE.jpg

Cleaned up the front and made sure the bottom (top in the picture) is level as that rests on the dash shelf. 
iV746Na.jpg

Covered the parts that might make contact with the car in the TESA (ford recall) tape to give it the buffer that was previously there. 
Q1jIG66.jpg

 

One short drive on the new dash and it seems to be working well.  Next is to build a little extension for the shifter tray piece so it has some more rigidity again. 
Basically where the blue tape is. 

I have some ABS bar stock I'm planning to cut and shape and tie that into the edge. 

https://imgur.com/1iudvgM.jpg[/img]

Edited by apeacock
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