Andy's 2000 V70 R


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6 hours ago, BlackT5 said:

2000R Angle gear wont work with M66 unless you can find a passenger axle that has the seal in the correct place. 2000R passenger axle won't fit M66

You know, I forgot about the axle :D - doesn't the '00 XC axle fit though? The R axle has different diff splines, that was the issue you had, correct?

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Here's the story behind my new-to-me 2000 V70 R. Its gonna be a long post, and picture heavy too! This thread will serve as a continuation of sorts of my 1999 V70 R build, which can be read here:

It has been buffed and ceramic coated 😊 I’m thrilled with how the fresh paint and ceramic coating all turned out!  I’ll take some better (non-iPhone) pictures but heres a quick preview.   

I took advantage of some free time and the nice weather this past weekend to get my big front brake kit installed, and did a little bit of “while I’m in there” work too: I started the project by

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I used a 99 angle gear. I had originally bought cheap axles from IPD, the passenger one they offered at the time had seal locations for either 2000 or 99 angle gears. Both of those axles split boots so I just replaced them with OEM 99R axles that I pulled from my parts car.

The problem I had initially was on the driver side. I had just bought the passenger axle thinking the 2000R driver side would work but it was totally different

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On 1/10/2019 at 10:01 PM, lookforjoe said:

Looks good!  

Side note, you could use a '00 AG in a '99, you'd just need the '00 right axle. Doesn't work the other way around (without additional mod), since the DP would be in the way.

 

On 1/12/2019 at 11:25 AM, BlackT5 said:

2000R Angle gear wont work with M66 unless you can find a passenger axle that has the seal in the correct place. 2000R passenger axle won't fit M66

 

On 1/13/2019 at 12:02 PM, BlackT5 said:

I used a 99 angle gear. I had originally bought cheap axles from IPD, the passenger one they offered at the time had seal locations for either 2000 or 99 angle gears. Both of those axles split boots so I just replaced them with OEM 99R axles that I pulled from my parts car.

The problem I had initially was on the driver side. I had just bought the passenger axle thinking the 2000R driver side would work but it was totally different

I have OEM 99 axles that are in pretty good shape. I’d prefer to find a 99 angle gear so I can continue to use them instead of hunting for an axle to pair with my 00 R angle gear. I’ve had awful luck with aftermarket passenger axles, ran a few different brands with the same results - torn boot or excess play in less than 12 months from installing it. 

So, if anyone has a 99 angle gear they’re looking to sell, let me know!

 

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18 hours ago, andyb5 said:

So, if anyone has a 99 angle gear they’re looking to sell, let me know!

 

I do, it's out of the car but still bolted to the engine/trans out in my garage so I'll have to remove to get a good pic of the splines.. was working fine though

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On 1/15/2019 at 4:26 PM, phunktified said:

I do, it's out of the car but still bolted to the engine/trans out in my garage so I'll have to remove to get a good pic of the splines.. was working fine though

If you don’t mind getting a couple pictures, that would be great. Thanks! 

23 hours ago, lookforjoe said:

Pretty sure I still have a couple. I can check. Do you have the PN/ Casting # off yours for reference? Splines are good on mine.

I’ll send you a text with the part/casting number. Thanks!

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  • 1 month later...

Yesterday I did an “autopsy” on the B5234T8 to 1) find the source of the knocking noise, and 2) find what could have caused the noise to occur.  This was really fun and quite satisfying in the end.

I didn’t take any pictures of the first couple steps but I stripped the remaining ancillary bits off, pulled the cylinder head, and removed the oil pan. 

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After removing the oil pan, I found a failed o-ring at the connection between the oil pan and the crankcase. With close to 240,000 miles on the engine, I have no record of these o-rings being replaced. At this point I suspect the o-ring failure led to reduced oil pressure throughout the engine and insufficient lubrication to the bearings. Note that at no point prior to this engine being removed did the stock “oil pressure warning” instrument cluster light come on to alert me of a problem. 

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Next, I started to remove the rods and pistons to examine the bearings and see what stories they had to share. As it turns out, they had quite a tale to tell! 

 

I’m about halfway through the process and remove the cap from rod #3 to find the bearing is spun 90 degrees around. That’s a sure sign that things have gone catastrophically wrong! This confirms my suspicions that it was rod-knock that I had been hearing a not an issue with the top end/valve train. 

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I go to remove each half of the bearing and in doing so, I find an even more dramatic failure. One side of the bearing had fractured into 2 separate pieces! 

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Now, I’m not a professional mechanic, but I can assume that’ll cause a few problems :laugh:

The crank journal on cyl 3 was gouged pretty deeply

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The intact half of the #3 rod bearing was worn down pretty dramatically - that surface should be silver, not copper. At least 1 full layer of metal had worn away from the bearing surface! This wear is caused by lack of oil supply and is how the big end of the rod has enough space to “knock” as it rotates around the crank. 

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Cylinders 2 and 4 were showing signs of damage to the bearings as well. I suspect the both cylinders experienced low oil pressure, but not as low as cylinder 3 so they did not fail outright, but would have been an issue had this engine continued to be run/driven. 

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Here’s a shot of my “coroner’s table” while I was working 

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While I’m not happy that engine needed to be replaced, I am happy that I was proven correct in my initial diagnosis and it was fun to be able to take the time and really understand both how and why this engine failed so I can learn from this experience!

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On 3/4/2019 at 10:29 AM, gmsgltr said:

Dude - yeah although shitty, pretty satisfying work when it all makes sense and you piece it all together yourself!

Exactly! Plus, now I can say I’ve killed an engine, that makes me cool right? 

On 3/4/2019 at 11:06 AM, Andzey said:

I guess nothing from that engine will be used ever again. 

Nope, it’ll get turned into a table. The head would probably be okay to reuse, I rebuilt it a few years ago but it’s a single VVT, hydro lifter RN head so it’s not really anything special or valuable. 

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27 minutes ago, andyb5 said:

Exactly! Plus, now I can say I’ve killed an engine, that makes me cool right?

You were sending it so hard you made it go boom cause #nofucksgiven. :cool:

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Yeah, I know that sound.  Sounds like a rock in the valve train; worse as you rev it and quiet as it comes back down to idle.

Salvage what you can for the next build!

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I had a thread somewhere here on vs on my donor engine disassembly where conrod bearing was friction welded to the crank, I guess your engine would experience same after some time. The engine was extremely dirty, so I thought clogged crank oil passages caused oil starvation, but wooden oil pan o rings could be responsible as well

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