Error Code P1238 On 2000 S80 T6

[bcon415]

Hi, 2000 S80 T6, twin turbo (2.8L)

Replaced flywheel, replaced timing belt at same time. Had much difficulty setting timing. After setting timing correctly, car cranked and idled good. Took for test drive, ran sluggish, no turbo feel. Accelerated to 5000 rpms, then car ran only at idle, cut off frequently. Had to tow it back to shop. Cleared codes, started again, only code now is p1238. How does this affect idle? Runs as if it is out of gas. Idles, but will not accelerate, cuts off, dies if left at idle. If feather accelerator it will continue to idle and can drive only at idle.

[CHARGER69O1]

Sure that belt is on there just right?? :rolleyes:

[JVC]

I have information that the Interwebz has provided... the person that asked the question said he had P1238 and couldn't figure out what it was, and he got this answer.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Volvo-Repair-83...rouble-code.htm

That code converts to volvo code ECM-6806 and the code description as described in the volvo service manual:

284: ECM-6806 Turbocharger (TC) control system flow fault. Flow too high/low. Permanent/Intermittent fault, B6284T

Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) information

Condition

If engine speed (RPM) is above 3500 rpm and the engine is operating at a high load, the control signal to the turbocharger (TC) control valve is at maximum and the boost pressure (from boost pressure sensor) is lower than a designated value (approximately 20 kPa (2.90 psi) under normal boost pressure - signal too low).

If the air mass (from mass air flow (MAF) sensor) is higher than a desired value (signal too high) it is interpreted as a fault and diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-6806 is stored.

Substitute value

reduced boost pressure

Possible source

Signal too high:

-air leakage after turbocharger (TC)

Signal too low:

-hoses between turbocharger (TC) and turbocharger (TC) control valve respectively turbocharger (TC) control valve and pressure servo are loose or are blocked/damaged

-faulty turbocharger (TC) control valve

-faulty boost pressure control (BPC) valve pressure servo

-sticking boost pressure control (BPC) valve

I would say that considering you just replaced coils and all the tubes were off on top of the engine, one of them may be loose, leaking or damaged. Good luck fault-tracing.

[bcon415]

I have information that the Interwebz has provided... the person that asked the question said he had P1238 and couldn't figure out what it was, and he got this answer.

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Volvo-Repair-83...rouble-code.htm

I had already read the info from allexperts forum (question and answers), but it still does not answer the of how this affects idle, cutting off and not accelerating.

[VTT5]

I had already read the info from allexperts forum (question and answers), but it still does not answer the of how this affects idle, cutting off and not accelerating.

Car is in limp home mode to prevent overboost from blowing something up.

[vegasjetskier]

Hi, 2000 S80 T6, twin turbo (2.8L)

Replaced flywheel, replaced timing belt at same time. Had much difficulty setting timing. After setting timing correctly, car cranked and idled good. Took for test drive, ran sluggish, no turbo feel. Accelerated to 5000 rpms, then car ran only at idle, cut off frequently. Had to tow it back to shop. Cleared codes, started again, only code now is p1238. How does this affect idle? Runs as if it is out of gas. Idles, but will not accelerate, cuts off, dies if left at idle. If feather accelerator it will continue to idle and can drive only at idle.

Just curious as to why you had to replace the flywheel?

When you set the timing, did you remove the VVT hub from the camshaft pulley? If so, you have to retime it with some special tools.

[bcon415]

Lessee,

VTT5, you were exactly right. The car was in limp home mode. I found the hose was off of the "radiator" that is btw the AC and radiator, so once reaffixed correctly it starts fine and idles fine.

Now it is showing a code of 1153, so I am looking for help there.

VegasJetskier, the teeth were eaten up real bad, and if'n it got in the worst spot, would not turn over, but sounded like an old gm starter where the bendix were bad, not kicking in the starter gear, just spinning the starter. The owner of the car said it was just clicking, but when interpreted it meant it was doing the above.

VTT5, thanks for the info, got any thoughts as to error code P1153?

[bcon415]

Just curious as to why you had to replace the flywheel?

When you set the timing, did you remove the VVT hub from the camshaft pulley? If so, you have to retime it with some special tools.

I was never able to remove the VVT hub from the camshaft. It was on too tight.

[Ghost Shadow]

double check your timing. my 99xc did something similar to yours. m timing was off. i set the bottom mark then set the two marks on top for my car and now i got NO more check engine lights. i got a 1237 code also when my timing was out.

[bcon415]

I left the key on all night, drained battery (and cleared the codes), charged it this morning,

I just took it out for a spin. Came back with code 1133 and 1182.

Idles ok, but shaky. No low end. Not much power but if I floor the accelerator it picks up but not quickly, slowly, then suddenly.

Have not checked the timing yet, but I'll check the timing marks as Mr. Burg_855T suggested after it cools down some.

[MrWinkey]

You now have an 0/2 code bank one and a fuel adaptation code. Sure sounds like something isn't timed right. When I do T-6 belts I do not remove any of the charge air hoses. So I'm guessing you did such?

[bcon415]

Mr. Winkey,

Yep, I removed the hoses, probably 20 times in search for good running. It started as a bad flywheel (requires dropping the engine cradle), then moved to "why_not_change_the_timing_belt" while totally accessable; so marked all the gears, but was unaware of the VVT exhaust valve would move, and did not read up on how to reset this gizmo when it gets skewed. After finally getting it timed enough to start, I took it for a test spin and p1238 was thrown, so I researched it and found the turbo hose was off at the radiator. Re-affixed missed item, test drove, this time 1153 came up, and a bad miss on cylinder #6 (p0306). Switched coil and plug from 6 to 4, retested, P0304 and 1153. Replaced plug, retested, same codes. Replaced coil on now #4, and only code 1133, yes, 1133 not 1153. So I am stuck w/ 1133, P1133 as a code and a poor running machine. Am going to volvo dealer w/ it this afternoon, unless I can find more info about it.

Brad

[bcon415]

Mr. Winkey, just viewed your trains, awesome!!! Gotta get me one of them. Only got HO now.

But on to the T6 motor.

Question: When doing the T6 timing belt, I have a question as to where the EXACT timing mark is on the crank. There is a mark looks like a bent "L" that I used as the mark the first time, but after reading more forums decided that the small mark beside the "L" that looked identical to the mark on the cam gears was really the mark, so I retimed the engine using that identical mark. Do you remember if I did it right? To be sure we are talking apples and apples, this T6 motor has the CVVT on the exhaust side.

Any help is appreciated.

Brad

[MrWinkey]

Mr. Winkey, just viewed your trains, awesome!!! Gotta get me one of them. Only got HO now.

But on to the T6 motor.

Question: When doing the T6 timing belt, I have a question as to where the EXACT timing mark is on the crank. There is a mark looks like a bent "L" that I used as the mark the first time, but after reading more forums decided that the small mark beside the "L" that looked identical to the mark on the cam gears was really the mark, so I retimed the engine using that identical mark. Do you remember if I did it right? To be sure we are talking apples and apples, this T6 motor has the CVVT on the exhaust side.

Any help is appreciated.

Brad

The crank mark is actually to the left hand side facing the motor. There is a mark close to the middle that appears like it should be it however it's not. I'll see if I can find a picture.

[MrWinkey]

The crank mark is actually to the left hand side facing the motor. There is a mark close to the middle that appears like it should be it however it's not. I'll see if I can find a picture.

Here is a write up on the 40 series , the pictures give you an idea as to where the crank position should be.

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/s40_timing_belt.html