Chilled man Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Do NOT buy from VMS. them or level ten we all know that :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlboroman Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 I do want to do what I can to improve breathing, etc., so I'm assuming 3-angle valve job, head & manifold porting.I'm assuming that I can basically stick with stock OE parts, unless someone sees a strong reason for going with VMS rods, etc. I've not seen any mention of OE beefier rods - do they exist or are all 2.3 - 2.4 rods the same? It seems from all threads I can find that this really is the weak link, but not sure if it's really worthwhile under 350BHP, based on what I've read.Suggestions?Leave the head as is, for 300hp thats a waste of money. Port the exhaust manifold and replace the plastic tubing between amm and turbo with a real pipe, of aluminum or stainless.If you want to be sure go for new rods. I've seen rods that bent in stock engines, no tuning. Thing is with the stock rods: they will bend. And considering your aim, your in the zone where rods easily bend. And you say you want to have more boost a lower rpm? Thats the ultimate rod-killer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auburn T5 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 If ANYTHING, I'd say the one thing that should be "refreshed" in the donor engine are the rods. They're really the only real achilles heel of the T5 engines. From what I've read, the pistons are actually quite good so they're not manditory.Any plans to put a bigger turbo on? I'd assume so given your HP desire. A 16T won't be able to push out more than 300 hp.. at least not effeciently. Get a GT35 with a super 60 wheel. It should offer plenty of power for 350+ hp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Thanks for the feedback.So it seems rods are pretty much de rigueur for what I'd like.I'll call R-Sport on theirs.Just curious, what's wrong with VMS?, I found the link to them on this forum..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshV70 Posted May 7, 2008 Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Thanks for the feedback.So it seems rods are pretty much de rigueur for what I'd like.I'll call R-Sport on theirs.Just curious, what's wrong with VMS?, I found the link to them on this forum.....Read this:http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=40594 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2008 Read this:http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=40594Gotcha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laird Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 If your car is a keeper, put some good rods in there. You will bend a stock rod sooner or later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 just out of curiosity, how well does your engine hold torque at high rpm (above 5000) with the 16T on? since you said it only makes full boost at 4000 does it also hold the boost and torque higher than a T5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlboroman Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Leave the head as is, for 300hp thats a waste of money. Port the exhaust manifold and replace the plastic tubing between amm and turbo with a real pipe, of aluminum or stainless.Thanks! Why change that hose, there's no pressure - is it a flow issue with the ribbed hose?Changing out the ribbed hose will give +5-10hp on the dyno Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 just out of curiosity, how well does your engine hold torque at high rpm (above 5000) with the 16T on? since you said it only makes full boost at 4000 does it also hold the boost and torque higher than a T5?This is what I have - tweaking of the wastegate actuator can make it come on earlier, but that increases overall level of boost also, which I want to cap @ 16psi with the lpt...It holds torque very well, the problem is I get to too high of a road speed long before the car wants to stop pulling. I don't know how this compares to a T5 5 speed manual.1st - 9psi @ 6K shift2nd - 13psi @ 6K shift (58MPH)3rd - 14psi @ 6K (didn't check the speedo on that)4th - 14psi @ 6K shift 5th - 15psi @ 5K shift 6th - I don't know - normal cruising speed in 6th @3k is 85mph - so 6K in 6th will probably bury the needle.Changing out the ribbed hose will give +5-10hp on the dynoThanks!Any resource recommendations for this, or did you have it custom fabricated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RZT5 Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 This is what I have - tweaking of the wastegate actuator can make it come on earlier, but that increases overall level of boost also, which I want to cap @ 16psi with the lpt...It holds torque very well, the problem is I get to too high of a road speed long before the car wants to stop pulling. I don't know how this compares to a T5 5 speed manual.1st - 9psi @ 6K shift2nd - 13psi @ 6K shift (58MPH)3rd - 14psi @ 6K (didn't check the speedo on that)4th - 14psi @ 6K shift 5th - 15psi @ 5K shift 6th - I don't know - normal cruising speed in 6th @3k is 85mph - so 6K in 6th will probably bury the needle.My cars running stock boost, but i'm guessing the boost would fade to about that degree on a 16 psi chipped T5M. I wonder why your not getting full boost untill 4k rpm though, i would have thought the lpt motor would come on sooner than a T5... I guess thats what the new engine is for my car makes full boost at 3000 on the dot with no wastegate modifications and original turbo at 150k so with a T5 motor, a rebuilt/new turbo, and some playing with the wastegate you should get your boost to come on in the 2500 rpm range Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 My cars running stock boost, but i'm guessing the boost would fade to about that degree on a 16 psi chipped T5M. I wonder why your not getting full boost untill 4k rpm though, i would have thought the lpt motor would come on sooner than a T5... I guess thats what the new engine is for my car makes full boost at 3000 on the dot with no wastegate modifications and original turbo at 150k so with a T5 motor, a rebuilt/new turbo, and some playing with the wastegate you should get your boost to come on in the 2500 rpm rangeI can get full boost @ 3K, but then the peak levels are then well over 16psi, that's why I backed off the actuator....The turbo's already rebuilt - but I may have to look for a larger one once I get the hpt motor in, I'll have to see how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auburn T5 Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 This is what I have - tweaking of the wastegate actuator can make it come on earlier, but that increases overall level of boost also, which I want to cap @ 16psi with the lpt...It holds torque very well, the problem is I get to too high of a road speed long before the car wants to stop pulling. I don't know how this compares to a T5 5 speed manual.1st - 9psi @ 6K shift2nd - 13psi @ 6K shift (58MPH)3rd - 14psi @ 6K (didn't check the speedo on that)4th - 14psi @ 6K shift 5th - 15psi @ 5K shift 6th - I don't know - normal cruising speed in 6th @3k is 85mph - so 6K in 6th will probably bury the needle.Thanks!Any resource recommendations for this, or did you have it custom fabricated?Me, Gdizzle and Joseph have discussed this. Gdizzle made his own and I was talking briefly back and fourth with joseph about fabbing something up but I lack the actual time to get up under the car and pull the hose off and measure it and fab up a prototype. It doesn't SEEM hard to build as it's just an elongated S shape. It would require a few extra nipples and vac connectors as there are a couple of misc vac lines near the end of the tube down by the turbo. They could be welded on as Gdizzle did or just drill a hole in the pipe and thread in the ribbed brass plumbing connectors found at any hardware store and seal it with JB weld (ghetto I know but not everyone has a welder on hand).If anyone has a spare fresh air tube that runs from the maf to the turbo, I could at least fab up a new tube from some misc intercooler piping I've got laying around and provide a comprehensive DIY then send back the hose to whoever let me borrow it.From what I've read though, where the tube connects to the inlet of the turbo is the biggest pain in the butt to get to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted May 8, 2008 Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Changing out the ribbed hose will give +5-10hp on the dynoThis guys web site is great info, here is the link to the snorkel page Woth R-line snorkel page Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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