Integrating Aftermarket Alarm With Stock Alarm System

[NoodleKnight]

I searched but all I found out was that I needed some relay, not sure what kind or what wires it should be switching 12V into...

I also can't figure out which wire is the immobilizer wire. All the wiring diagrams I've found are either for older 850's or are incomplete, any tips/diagrams/help?

The system is a compustar 2W900FM, 2-way alarm only.

The car is a 1997 855R

Thanks

EDIT: Also where did you guys place your alarm antennas and shock sensors? Also, reading over the supplied instructions, it looks like there's no provision to actually disarm the compustar alarm by unlocking the door with a key. Is this the case? If so that's quite stupid...

[HPTDoh]

Do the directions say that you need to tap into an immobilizer wire? I've never put in a compustar, but if they're like DEI alarms, you need to cut the starter wire in half and solder in wires from the alarm brain to each side. This will allow the starter kill to work.

AFAIK, the only way to disarm aftermarket alarms is with the remote fob

[HPTDoh]

Not sure if you've seen this, but it's stickied in Performance. It says it's for a 93, but I'm pretty sure all of them were the same in my 96 850

Dose any one know what wire is what in 1993 850?

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |

| 12V | red |+ |plastic-tube harness |

| STARTER | green/red |+ |located behind the |

| IGNITION |blue/red |relays near firewall |

| ACCESSORY |yellow/purple |+ |under drivers side |

| POWER LOCK |yellow/gray *1 |- |black connector above |

| POWER UNLOCK|green/red *1 |- |hood release |

| PARKING LIGHTS +|white | |by ignition harness *2 |

| HEADLIGHTS |green and grn/wht |+ |underhood fusebox |

| DOOR TRIGGER|yellow/white *3 |- |near hood release |

| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|blue/brown |in park light harness |

| HOOD PIN | yellow/black |- |hood pin switch |

| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |

|FCTRY ALRM DISARM|blue/brown *5 |- |harness from door |

| TACHOMETER |blue | |ignition coil |

| BRAKE WIRE |yellow | | |

| HORN TRIGGER |yellow/black *4 |- |steering column |

| WIPERS |yellow and white |+ |wiper switch |

| LF WINDOW UP/DN|blu/grn - green A |window switch or pkp |

| LR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/gry - red/blk | A |at window switch |

| RR WINDOW UP/DN|grn/yel - grn/wht |A |at window switch |

Notes:

*1 also found gray/red and green/tan on some models *2 in a large taped harness with more than one white wire. test to find. *3 do not use the pink/black domelight wire since it is affected by the delay and turns off 60 seconds after the open. *4 horn only works with the key in the accessory or run position. *5 To disarm the factory alarm, must trigger the blue/brown factory alarm disarm wire, and the unlock wire at the same time.

Hope this helps you.

**AnthonyR edit.**

From my own experience butting a clifford Matrix 3.5RS remote start/alarm in my 95 850.

There is a second ignition, that is Blue/yellow. It controls alot of the accessories and ABS/Tracs.

Also on MY95 (I beleive it was the only year) had a 1-wire door lock (green/red) that if ground was cut the doors unlock and the car disarms and when it see's ground again it locks and arms.

You can also find tach in the drivers kick as white/black, as I picked up alot of engine noise in my sound system after trying the coil wire.

-AnthonyR

****

[b3atboxjr]

Here it is - after much confusion and no completely accurate source of info, here is the wiring diagram I composed while wiring a Python 881XP remote start alarm into my own 1996 855T.

Wire: color: location: polarity

12V constant: Red: ignition harness: +

Accessory: Yellow/Purple: ignition harness: +

****Accessory 2: Blue/Yellow: ignition harness: +

Ignition: Blue/Red: ignition harness: +

Starter: Green/Red: ignition harness: +

*Tach Signal: Blue: Ignition coil: AC

Lock: Yellow/Gray: Wires inside plastic covering in driver's kickpanel: -

**UnLock: Gray/Red: Yellow multiport {blue harness}: -

**Parklights: White: Yellow multiport {blue harness}: +

Doorpin: Yellow/White: Wires inside plastic covering in driver's kickpanel: -

Trunkpin: Blue/Brown: Wires inside plastic covering in driver's kickpanel: -

Hoodpin: Black/Yellow: connected to hoodpin in engine compartment - driver side: -

Brakeswitch: Yellow: Yellow harness above brake pedal: +

***Factory Disarm: Blue/Brown: in large bundle of wires hanging below the relay center: -

*: This alarm couldn't recognize the tach wire. I had to reprogram it to monitor the car's voltage and crank for 1.0 second

**: behind the driver dash there are three different colored multiports for multiple wire harnesses.

***: There are quite a few blue/browns in this bundle, my 6th blue/brown was the charm ;-)

****: This second accessory wire needs to be hooked up otherwise your ABS and TRAC lights will flash

Extra Notes: You must have both the factory disarm wire and unlock wires hooked up for the unlock to function properly. The factory alarm will arm and disarm along with the locks.

Also, I've found that there is no way to isolate the parklights from the headlights, meaning that whenever your lights flash, so too will your headlights. For me, that was annoying, so I hooked the parklight wire from the alarm to my turn signals. The turn signal wires are green and blue/green, located in the loomed bundle of wires coming from the relay center up in the driver dash. refer to this link for pictures. Remember to either diode isolate the blinker wires from each other or use a DPDT relay or else when you turn on either blinker, both will signal simultaneously.

edit

the "this link" is here:

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=5165

[b3atboxjr]

note: the wiring diagram posted before mine... can it be more vague on wire locations?

[NoodleKnight]

Many thanks for the help. The charts clarified a lot.

HPT you are right the immobilizer is just a relay and I need to cut the ignition wire. I've managed to figure out 90% of the wires; what I'm not totally sure is the integration into the stock system. It looks like I can just use the lock and unlock outputs on the compustar brain to send a signal to the factory system. Again I remember reading something about having to utilize a relay, but after looking it over it doesn't look like it's necessary. Hopefully someone can chime in with some info...

Still can't believe that there's no provision for lock/unlock input into the aftermarket system; I've gotten used to unlocking the car with my key after my factory keyfob refused to unlock the car.

[HPTDoh]

Many thanks for the help. The charts clarified a lot.

HPT you are right the immobilizer is just a relay and I need to cut the ignition wire. I've managed to figure out 90% of the wires; what I'm not totally sure is the integration into the stock system. It looks like I can just use the lock and unlock outputs on the compustar brain to send a signal to the factory system. Again I remember reading something about having to utilize a relay, but after looking it over it doesn't look like it's necessary. Hopefully someone can chime in with some info...

Still can't believe that there's no provision for lock/unlock input into the aftermarket system; I've gotten used to unlocking the car with my key after my factory keyfob refused to unlock the car.

Hope that was a typo. Cut the *STARTER* wire. If that alarm comes with a relay for the starter kill, you'll need to tap into the ignition wire in order for it to work properly.

As for the key, welcome to the world of keyless entry . I can't really think of an advantage to unlocking with the key itself.

[b3atboxjr]

It looks like I can just use the lock and unlock outputs on the compustar brain to send a signal to the factory system. Again I remember reading something about having to utilize a relay, but after looking it over it doesn't look like it's necessary. Hopefully someone can chime in with some info...

Still can't believe that there's no provision for lock/unlock input into the aftermarket system; I've gotten used to unlocking the car with my key after my factory keyfob refused to unlock the car.

you don't need to add any relays to lock/unlock the car. i'd assume your alarm came with a starter kill relay as most alarms do - this should be the only relay you need.

the aftermarket alarm will work in tangent with the stock alarm, like I said, "Extra Notes: You must have both the factory disarm wire and unlock wires hooked up for the unlock to function properly. The factory alarm will arm and disarm along with the locks."

The factory alarm will also arm when the lock wire is triggered. So other than hooking up the factory disarm wire, you don't have to do any extra work to achieve functionality of both alarms.

simply put, if you have the lock/unlock/factory disarm wires all hooked up correctly, when you hit "arm" on your transmitter, both the stock and aftermarket systems will arm, and when you hit "disarm," both systems will disarm.

It looks like I can just use the lock and unlock outputs on the compustar brain to send a signal to the factory system. Again I remember reading something about having to utilize a relay, but after looking it over it doesn't look like it's necessary. Hopefully someone can chime in with some info...

Still can't believe that there's no provision for lock/unlock input into the aftermarket system; I've gotten used to unlocking the car with my key after my factory keyfob refused to unlock the car.

You don't need to add any relays to lock/unlock the car. i'd assume your alarm came with a starter kill relay as most alarms do - this should be the only relay you need.

the aftermarket alarm will work in tangent with the stock alarm, like I said, "Extra Notes: You must have both the factory disarm wire and unlock wires hooked up for the unlock to function properly. The factory alarm will arm and disarm along with the locks."

So other than hooking up the factory disarm wire, you don't have to do any extra work to achieve functionality of both alarms.

Simply put, if you have the lock/unlock/factory disarm wires all hooked up correctly, when you hit "arm" on your transmitter, both the stock and aftermarket systems will arm, and when you hit "disarm," both systems will disarm.

[Owned]

There's no feasible reason why anyone would want keyed access. Put your remote on your key ring and there will never be a problem unless you're a fruit cake and want them separate.

If you are worried about some kind of situation where the remote goes down or something like that, you can still bypass the Compustar with just the key. Just put it into program/bypass mode with the key. Worst case you'll have to listen to your siren for a second or two. Even with my 7 sirens a key bypass doesn't bother me THAT much.

[NoodleKnight]

Hope that was a typo. Cut the *STARTER* wire. If that alarm comes with a relay for the starter kill, you'll need to tap into the ignition wire in order for it to work properly.

As for the key, welcome to the world of keyless entry . I can't really think of an advantage to unlocking with the key itself.

Yes I meant starter; I've made myself a table of what wires to splice and cut and where they're located. Thanks again for the help guys.

As for the keyless entry it's not a big deal, hopefully I didnt come across like it was... it's just that I've gotten so used to using the key since my factory keyfob only locks with both buttons, hah.

7 sirens is a lot.

EDIT: Okay I've figured everything out but one thing, the driver's priority unlock. Did you guys just do what the manual said and connect the 2nd pulse unlock to the drivers doorlock actuator and seperated it from the system? Or did you use the factory alarm to handle that? Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like if you send a signal through the wires connecting pins ATR on the alarm relay and central locking relay, it'll first unlock the drivers door; then the second pulse will unlock the rest of the doors?

[NGB]

7 sirens is a lot.

You think so, until something gets stolen.

[b3atboxjr]

EDIT: Okay I've figured everything out but one thing, the driver's priority unlock. Did you guys just do what the manual said and connect the 2nd pulse unlock to the drivers doorlock actuator and seperated it from the system? Or did you use the factory alarm to handle that? Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like if you send a signal through the wires connecting pins ATR on the alarm relay and central locking relay, it'll first unlock the drivers door; then the second pulse will unlock the rest of the doors?

The lock wire I listed should be a one-pulse lock for all doors.

I don't have to use the factory transmitter at all.

Note: If one pulse on the lock wire does nothing, then you don't have the correct lock wire... :rolleyes:

[NoodleKnight]

Yeah I have it currently connected to that wire; the whole car unlocks with one pulse. I was wondering if there's a wire that can be triggered for drivers door priority unlock, since the OEM alarm system had it.

[b3atboxjr]

hmm, i don't know. maybe it's a resistance thing?

[Owned]

If there is a separate wire you would have to use a separate output for it with the Compustar. Seems like a lot of work for something really useless an annoying. I have always hated the priority BS with my S60.